Tracking force dial reads low on Linn Ittok LVII


Yesterday evening I used my simple plastic Goldring scale device to measure the tracking force on my AT-OC9ML/II cartridge. I set the scales at 1.5g as per Audio Technica recommended figure.

The dial on the arm had to be turned up to 1.6g (from 1.5) to make the scales balance. (The bias was left unchanged at 1.5)

I then checked the arm was still parallel with the playing surface.

This 0.1g change has made a big difference to the sound of records, which now have more heft and drive. It might help you if you have an LVII too.


I checked my LVII a while back and 2.0g matches the dialed in force. My cart is a Dyna 10x5.

1 Like

Or maybe the Goldring scale is reading high?


Or maybe the counterweight is too far back.

1 Like

If I remember my weighing scale calibration correctly in order to ‘accurately’ display 0.1 g the read out should be to 2 decimal places. 0.01g.

It is quite feasible that your scale could be measuring anything in the range 1.50-1.59g BUT still showing 1.5g

The dial on my Ekos SE is .2 grams off, which makes it effectively useless. For the last few years I’ve been using one of those ultra-cheap OEM gauges, and have gotten good results. They can be a bit flaky, possibly because they’re sensitive to room temperature. I find it works better if you turn it on, put it on the platter, and leave it for a few minutes to settle. Even then, I need to take several measurements, just to be sure. It’s also essential that you use a calibration weight every time you use it, and adjust the reading accordingly.

A while back I got fed up with this flakiness, and searched around for something better than the el cheapo gauge that didn’t cost hundreds of dollars. I eventually bought a Riverstone model from the river (about $30), and it’s well worth the modest extra cost.

One other thing I’ve tried which seems to bring a small improvement on spring-loaded arms such as the Ekos. Instead of starting off with the dial at zero and positioning the counterweight to get the arm dead level, I just set the dial at the desired tracking force (1.75 grams for the Kandid), and use the counterweight to set the actual tracking force.

Conventional wisdom is that you should fine tune tracking force by ear, but it seems to one of those things I’m not very sensitive to. There have been times in the past where I’ve gone months with the tracking force one or two tenths of a gram off, and I never noticed anything amiss.


I have never relied on the arm’s gauge…I balance the arm, set VTF by the arm’s gauge and then correct using a cheapo but consistent digital guage. Seems to work for me.

1 Like

Try again with the bias zeroed.

1 Like

Sorry, I wasn’t clear. I did the measuring with the bias at zero. Then I reset the bias at an unchanged figure of 1.5. Only the tracking force was changed. From 1.5 to 1.6g.

The tracking force that results from the dial setting always depends on the arm balance that was initially set with the dial at 0. Even if the arm seems “in balance” initially and even if the dial worked perfectly accurately, it is easy to be slightly higher or lower.
If in doubt, use a scale

1 Like

Start from the recommended VTF by whatever scale is most repeatable then adjust it by ear to what you consider optimum, record the setting. Chances are the next cartridge won’t sound its best at exactly the same VTF anyway.

In the light of comments I’ve looked again carefully at the balance of my arm when tracking force is set at 0g.

Having got the arm parallel with the record’s surface, I then set 1.5g for tracking force on the arm’s dial. The Goldring scales now balance at 1.5. Finally I set the bias at 1.5.

The arm looks right, tracking force dial reads right, and the music sounds great. Thank you all.


So it looks like I was right:smile:

This topic was automatically closed 60 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.