Not if you are taking it in your car - I think it might be different if you were sending by carrier. But you do need to remove the counterweight, remove the outer platter, wedge the suspension, cover the stylus.
I was always told to ‘jack up’ the inner platter so the spindle isn’t hitting the bottom of the shaft. A thin magazine (like a crappy TV guide) folded in 2 and wedged between the top plate and inner platter will do. Transport the outer platter separately.
All said by Clive B. I also used to put some thin pieces of polystyrene under the inner platter and leave it in place to save spilling the oil. I also have a bearing spindle and cap for the bearing but haven’t had to use it.
Always good to keep the LP12 box and don’t forget to prevent the box from moving around in the car. I tend to use the boot rather than the back seat to prevent a sickening thud in case you need to stop quickly! Oh and a bin liner to put the box in just in case it’s raining either end - all rather anal but I nearly got caught out in a downpour a while back. Also prevents prying eyes!
A couple of pieces of soft paper between the armboard/plinth also stops the suspension rocking and marking either side. As Ravenswood suggests, I find it far better to lift the inner platter slightly (outer platter in the base of the box) and push 2 sponges (~15mm thick) under it and let the suspension relax down - this prevents any material movement and any oil dripping out.
HappyListener, I’ve used a couple of pieces of cardboard that fit nicely between the plinth and the armboard, which were already in the box.
Also, I have already removed and packed the inner platter as instructed by Linn.
I’m looking forward to the demo. Hopefully, I’ll be ordering the RP10 after the demo as I can then step away from the LP12 upgrade path. However, the Sound Organisation seem to think I’ll be having the Lingo 4 fitted. Whichever upgrade I choose will be the one I think sounds the best, though.
As a long-time LP12 owner, I take it to a dealer very so often to check the setup, not just for upgrades/cartridge replacement.
Simply do as follows (I would insert a colon here, but this new forum keeps insisting on inserting an EMOJI when I try this!)
Remove the outer platter and belt. Don’t forget to mark the outside of the belt (if not already done)
If you don’t have the original bit of polystyrene spacer, use a couple of thin paperback books of equal thickness to prop up the centre platter.
Fasten the tonearm via its clip, and just to be safe tie down the arm to its rest as well. Clips do sometimes fail. There is no need to remove the tonearm - after all, your dealer set it up for you and I assume he/she didn’t make you reinstall it and the cartridge yourself!
Use the stylus guard if you have one.
DO NOT place the power lead or any other lead across the top of the turntable. They may move during transport and damage the cartridge.
I’ve never bothered with the bin liner tip, but then I’ve usually been lucky!
This is exactly what I did whenever my LP12 needed to be moved, and my dealer did the same. Leaving the inner platter in place (but raised) seems like a good idea, as it doesn’t expose the bearing to ingress of dust or dirt.
Clive, I know the LP12 upgrade path isn’t compulsory, but once I heard what the Lingo 4 does, I couldn’t resist it. So I’ve “pushed the button” on the Lingo 4.
Basically the PRaT was was even better with the Lingo 4, and I found it easier to hear small detail, such as tongues clicking on the roof of the singers’ mouth.
As for the Rega RP10: for me, it lacked the “drive” that the LP12 had and the music wasn’t holding my attention so well.