I didn’t know you had a P10. There are a lot of them about. What’s nice about the Brinkmann is that it makes a nice change. It looks quite pricey so it’s good to hear that the cheaper P10 can hold its head up in its company. In terms of shelves, the P10 is certainly a lot lighter!
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The nice thing is they are very different. the P10 has a more expensive cart on it (aphelion vs Lyra Delos) and digs out more detail and spatial cues. The Bardo just plain rocks but is not as subtle! Joni Mitchell is P10 music Zeppelin is Bardo music!
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We were doing a show with the Deborah Bonham Band tomorrow; as I’m sure you know she is John’s younger sister. It’s going to be a Bardo gig for sure!
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…one day there will be no such thing as “dangley wire”…
I have only used the Bauer DPS3 on the stoic wall mount, so I can’t provide any comparative values.
I initially had the DDX-1500 on the top level of the Naim Fraim Lite - and was not satisfied with it.
Depending on the music material (e.g. Sort of Revolution by Fink on the live album “Wheels turn beneath my feet”) and volume, there was feedback in the bass range from the floor over the rack - with then clearly audible booming in the speaker.
With the second wall mount, this problem was solved and the mount “lifted” the MicroSeiki to a much higher sound level.
atb, Tom
Thanks @tom539
What is the board on which the turntable sits made from? The pictures I found showed just the frame itself.
Part of my problem is that no-one puts 5 of these things on the wall to do a proper comparison. That leaves leaves me 3 choices: -
A. Change nothing.
B. Change the Targett for a rival.
C. Test whether clever feet, platforms, balls & cups make things better or worse, for both turntable and Naim boxes.
I am not unhappy with A, and am currently doing some experimenting on B. If I feel driven to go for B, I won’t want to get it wrong, so taking advantage of your experience (and all those who have commented) is the best chance I have of avoiding a major mistake.
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I must be missing something here!
- Plate available in multiplex, clear, black, white or sandwich clear, black, white or slate
My board are both multiplex black.
atb, Tom
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I was only dreaming about future technology possibilities,
How Linn sets up its own turntables 
:
Taken from the Linn Magazine ca. 1986. And the LKs and the Index were already wireless.
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Additional silence and stability in the presentation is often mistaken for a lack of dynamics and a poorer timing. However, I am deeply convinced that light and rigid was the best if not the only solution for earlier LP12s (let’s say Pre-Cirkus/Tramp).
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It looks as if they were taking the view that the suspension was so good that anything fairly rigid would be equally good. They may still be right, but lots of people don’t seem to think so.
First experiment -first embarrassing question. I have 3 sets of Naim balls, cups and glass locator kits. It makes sense to try these between shelves - glass or MDF or stone - as an alternative to HRS or other clever feet.
So how exactly do I arrange these things (esp the glass holder bits) to make it all work.
You can assume almost limited competence at setting is anything more complicated than a kettle.
Sorry if it should be obvious how to do it right….
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@Debs - thanks for the guidance. I have cups and balls.
@anon4489532 - thanks too, not least for your post a coupl e f years ago on how to get the cups the right way up.
I have the ‘glass locator kit’ too. I assume that the idea is to stick that to the underside of the glass so that the ball sits inside it and the whole shelf is less likely to slide off and crash to the ground. If that is wrong.do let me know.
Also, before the experimenting get going, does anyone remeber Torlyte? IIRC, flat-earth Linn-ites 20+years ago (the ones who regarded Kans as just about the only real speaker) used to swear by it.
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I must have made the right choice all those years ago when I bought my Audiotech shelf. No longer made I understand. Its now supporting my LP12 with the much heavier Tangerine Audio Stiletto plinth with no problems.
Surely the main purpose of a wall shelf is to decouple it as far as possible from other vibrations. I have a Sound Organisation table which on a suspended wooden floor was no match for the Audiotech. However its still in use at the other end of the room supporting an OPPO blu-ray player under the TV.
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Are you talking about Fraim glass locators?
yes
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The locators are a right pain and are to avoided if possible. It’s hard to get them positioned exactly right and then you have to ensure they don’t touch your balls.
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Just position the shelf upside down (after the ping test) and then apply - flip back over and voila.
But I agree they are a pain, in that they either stick overly well and resist removal, leaving a sticky residue, or they fall off early doors.
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Do you both rely on a mixture of inertia and charisma to stop the whole thing sliding sideways to oblivion?
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The pic below is my LP12 on shelf, sat on the plain glass of the wall-shelf. As above, I tried the triangular positioning of Fraim balls and a Fraim shelf on the glass but that had a negative effect on the sound, perhaps as the existing glass is quite thin.
Re Fraim in general, I find that the kit is pretty stable on the shelves without the need for the stickies. Plus, I have sometimes moved the kit when cabling etc. As above:
1- (IMV) You really need to allow min 6’’/150mm behind a Fraim for access, dusting and cable management – which given the rear support design means it can protrude quite a lot.
2- I always (re)build Fraim with kit as I go and there’s a surprising amount of friction between the balls and glass shelf that one has to knock it quite hard to fall off the balls, remembering there is a rear stay.
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