So I think I have finally narrowed down why I have channel imbalance. The floor in my living room is unfortunately like many I imagine not level. Whilst its flat one side is lower down to the other going led to right by not shy off 3cm.
I am currently at the max I am happy to extend the length of the threads on my iso acoustics feet on the left to compensate and the lowest at the other side and it’s still about 2cm off. So I put a large book which is about 2cm thick on top of the stand and then put the speaker on it to get it be more or less the same height as the right and instantly noticed it was more balanced. So I know thus is the largest factor affecting it.
So I need to be able to level this side with out affecting the overall tonal balance. I guess using any sort of platform will effect how it interacts with my floor? So having a different material on one side may cause a different type of imbalance?
I could make some longer threads for the feet as I have spare M6 thread left over from my DiY bedroom head rig rack. But this may make it a bit too wobbly and unstable.
I could angle the right to fire down more so it’s hitting the sweet spot at the same point, but would this have other effects?
I have tweaked my balance to try and reduce the effrct and this works o but this doesn’t work for everything and it drives me nuts.
What can if do that’s not unsighlty, unstable and unbalance the sq?
If your living room floor is made of concrete, you could use a self-leveling compound to make it more even. We did this in our house after demolishing a wall and finding a few cms of difference between the floor levels in adjoining rooms. A little but harder than longer bolts though…
Robbed the bass as it absorbed too much. Perhaps taller isolation pads though might get me there, but likely a bit too wobbly.
Not possible wooden suspended floor. I also would not look to structural changes for the hifi not cost effective.
Ring isoacoustic and ask them to make you some longer threaded bar, unless you can sort this out yourself, as i bet they can help you
I can already as I mentioned I have spare M6 thread bars and likely the path I will choose just a bit concerned it will be too much height for such a small diameter and make them unstable. It does look like my only option.
As long as you lock it up with the nuts, nice and tight, it should be ok
OK, the book suggestion wasn’t entirely serious, but I wonder if the speaker/stand interface would be the better place to make this adjustment than the stand/floor interface, which seems to me to be more critical to performance. Not that I have a scientific explanation of this, but I would guess that thickening the plate at the top of the stands might be a better solution than long spikes.
How sure are you that is the ptoblem? Whilst 3cm seems a lot to be out in terms of levelness (over what width is that?), unless you sit in a very rigid seat making sure your positioning is precise it is easy for your ears to be 2 or 3 cm up one day and down another. Also if the floor is sloping evenly, the seat would be, too, so also might you, making the tweeters (the most direct frequencies) relatively level.
The answer to your specific question may depend on the speakers, and how heavy they are, and the spike rod diameter: 10kg sitting on long fat spikes are unlikely to be much of an issue even if only 6mm diameter, whereas 50kg on long 6mm diameter spikes may be more of a risk.
It does make a difference at my listening position which is why its a problem albeit a small one. It’s 3cm difference from one speaker to the other over about 2m. Whilst its not the end of the earth and I am compensating for it in tilt a bit as I have got the the top of the speaker aligning so they point at the same point on the back wall using a Lazer measure I know it makes it better being at more equal height. How much better to the hassle of sorting it is something I need to decide on, hence why I asked as I might be missing something easy to sort it.
I think @ChrisSU idea of adding depth to the base plate of the speaker stand is a good idea but not sure how I would accomplish this and keep the look of the stands. Something to consider though.
Just a some thoughts as 2-3cm seems pretty small. Is it leveling or rather room effects where at that height the constructive/destructive interference is just unfortunate at the listening spot.
Have you tried moving the listening spot left or right a little? Perhaps a plant or a wall hanging at in the right place could solve it?
Yes but have very little room to move it without obstructing the entrance and doorway to the right of the sofa I listen on.
Hmmm so one side has a doorway and the other a wall?
Yes picture below is from listening position. Door is on the right wall directly in line with the sofa I am sitting on. Furniture cannot move nor where it all lives.
Nice looking room! And view!!
Not an expert in sound engineering or so but just from understanding sound wave interference I am going to say that I think the wall and wooden furniture piece vs door is more likely to be the culprit than the 3cm.
Which side is more prominent! The left?
Thanks, we spend a lot of time looking at the birds in the hedge Yeah left. I know the room itself is playing it’s part as opening the door cause the balance to move also. But playing with the height just pulled it in more than any other method.
Surely as you have the suitable thread just make some extensions as required and check the results. Half hours work and job done. I had to do the same for one spike on my PMC MB2se previously with no problems and hardly noticeable.
Yep it’s going to be my next go at tweaking.
Yeah it would as the sound source moves so it would change how the sound waves are reflected and therefore move hot and cold spots as well.
You could always try and hang a thick blanket or towel behind and left of the speaker on the left as a test and see how that affects the balance.
But hey if changing the height solves it, why the hell not!