Unplugging Burndy cable

I need to disconnect the Burndy cable from the DAC and its power supply. It is very tight and I cannot put it out. Any suggestions?

Possibly a daft question, but have you turned the silver collar?

Firstly, ensure the power is off for all connected units. If you mean pull it out then it you need to twist it slightly at the socket (silver collar) to unlock it first.

Thank you. I twisted it and was able to pull out easily

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When you have to reconnect, I hope you have more joy than I normally do…

Maybe I’m doing something wrong but it always seems to be a pain to line the burndy plug up with the socket, once lined up then a twist of the silver collar pulls the plug in easily enough though.

Is it just me? Am I missing an alignment mark that I’m meant to line up?

Take hold of both ends of the cable and shake/swing while gently twisting in the direction needed. They should be under zero stress when connected and this method always works for me. It referred to by many as ‘massaging’. Its usually good to do this every 6-12 months as part of your system maintenance.

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I’m not explaining myself clearly. It’s not the cable stressing, it’s actually lining up the plug with the socket so the pins are in the correct position to be inserted.

I seem to spend an inordinate amount of time lining up, pressing slightly, withdrawing, looking again, rotating slightly etc. etc. Possibly complicated by my rack being a little difficult to get at (shelf over the top).

Before you unplug just put a sticker to line up the centre of the plug. Then you’ll know where to insert when you plug it back again.


Sometimes the collars are very difficult to turn - or even to get at - particularly on the NAP 500. I found a rubber strap wrench (by Cobra) used for removing things like oil filters to be very effective.

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There are 2 guide lines together, spaced maybe 3mm apart that are only in one specific place on plug and socket. I think this is what you mean? If you have a look at the socket end you can see this point quite clearly (but only if you know to look for it!) that should make life easier! Its usually at 5/7 o’clock on the boxes depending where you are facing.

Ah, thanks.

I’ve got a supercap off being serviced, will have a look for these when I need to replace the HiCap with it (to power my SNAXO)

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  • at least my advice still exists in some parallel Frequently Asked Questions.

I always put a drop of tipex on both ends of the plug plastic in the 12oclock position when the plugs are in place. When cables are removed …the dots helps enormously when re fitting…

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I have color coded dots for 300, XPS, and SC burndies. Four cables, four colors, eight dots. Like others suggest, adhered at top (12:00) when cables are in place. I’ve gotten to where they just slip in nicely.

On the 300DR the locking rings can be quote an effort to open/close.

Have the same problem with a new 500DR. Resorted to using a pair heavy duty site gloves with rubberised grip points to fit them. Damn things are so tight from new but expect them to be easier to work over time.

As mentioned above, I’ve used colour stickers to mark the centre of the Burndies - makes it a doddle to fit them after that.

Red,Orange ,Yellow and Green?

Red/Brown (300), Yellow (SCDR), Green (XPSDR).

The Devil makes work for organised hands.

175 sockets

175 sockets 2

even now I feel the shame of those misaligned half dots.


Got around to reconnecting my Snaxo242/SuperCap and nDAC/XPS-2 today.

I had a good look at them and noticed there’s a slightly thicker black plastic ‘lug’ at the top of the Burndy designed to interface with the socket on the nDAC/XPS-2/Snaxo/SuperCap. (the plug at the ends of the cable have a black body which has a number of lugs on the periphery which are used to locate it with the corresponding slots in the chassis socket on the equipment)

If I turned the plug so the thicker lug was at the top before I de-stressed the cable it slotted in easily. Should have had my glasses on and a torch out the last time I tried really.

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