I’ve sold lots of Naim on eBay all everything has been in mint condition. As you so rightly say it’s about being careful and sensible. I once bought a 552 off eBay and paid for it with a large bundle of used £20 notes. With hindsight I was perhaps somewhat foolish going into someone’s house with all that money, but I spoke to them on the phone first and you can get a very good idea of a person’s integrity from that.
Did you have a Terry McCann type companion? 
I had a look up Terry McCann as my memory failed on that one. It was just me and I’m about as hard looking as a butterfly.
I always pay with PayPal so you get some sort of guarantee if it all goes sour. And the seller knows there is no funny business and can see the money is there. But I do collect if possible. You can tell a lot from the house and what is parked in the drive…
Best
David
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Good advice!
Not wishing to turn this into a thread on the merits or otherwise of eBay, but as a seller you certainly don’t want to take a Paypal payment from someone who collects in person. Only ever take cash or, as I did recently, a bank transfer prior to collection (As a rule these cannot be reversed without the permission of the recipient). A Paypal payment requires proof of despatch/delivery from a proof of postage, waybill or similar, otherwise a buyer could say it was never received and have their payment refunded.
Of course, with any private transaction it’s a case of caveat emptor, so do your homework, trust your instincts, and always remember that if something seems too good to be true, it invariably is just that.
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I have used ebay but have either bought from a dealer and paid by credit card, or have collected, inspected and then paid cash - with my son in tow.
Is that your son Terry?
There is another U.K. site - the fishy place - where people tend to know or know of each other. If anyone does anything dodgy then everyone soon knows about it. I’ve bought and sold lots of things there and it’s nearly always been a pleasure. People turn up, check the stuff, have a cup of tea, pay and off they go. It tends to be cheaper than eBay but there is no commission and the community feel is nice.
Of course, for complete safety it’s best to buy from a dealer. Some are cheaper than others and some that you think might be expensive are actually quite the reverse.
Going back to the original question, buying a more mature item is not an issue so long as you know it’s been well looked after.
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I’ve decided to take the risk. I’ll start off keeping my 272 as a source/dac, with a view to get ndx2 in future.
For connecting the 272 to the 282 I assume 2xRCA out to the 282s aux input is required. Is any programming of the 282 required to accept that input?
Thanks
There are two DIN outputs on the 272, can you use one of those?
Several of my components are 2nd hand. All have been excellent. A 2011 282 shouldn’t need a service yet.
Regards,
Lindsay
Spoke to someone at Naim who said that typical sign of a service being required is clicking/crackling on input switching
I now have the 282 all setup and am delighted with the sound. The only sign of its age is a slightly duller Naim logo compared to my younger units. Is that anything to worry about in terms of needing a service?
No. They vary a bit anyway. It’s part of their individual character and has no effect at all on sound quality.
Best
David
There was a fairly large batch of Naim black boxes that were fitted with faulty Naim logos that bled after a few years. Naim will replace these logos free of charge if you go through a Naim dealer. I have a 2008 552 which suffers from a bled logo but I just haven’t bothered to get it replaced - enjoying the music too much. I will get the logo sorted when it goes for its service.
As others have said, it is purely aesthetic and has no impact on SQ.
The recent Naim boxes and those that have been serviced all match for brightness but my 10 year old superlune is fainter and before I sent it for DRing my 500 shone out much more.
What’s a bleedin’ logo look like?
You can usually easily spot a “bleeding” logo because where the lamination has parted it looks inky.
If all your logos are the same brightness then you are lucky. There’s some slight variance from one logo to the next, but mostly it varies from one bit of kit to the next. At best it’s nigh on impossible to notice any difference from one component to the next, but if you get two units at opposite limits of tolerance then you might well notice a difference in brightness.
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