Thanks that’s the clearest description I had.
I guess if I had remembered how to use a phase diagram I would have come up with something similar.
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2014 Chablis Montmains Samuel Billaud
Wednesday’s wine, drunk video chatting to a couple of friends. As you can see lovely straw yellow colour. Attractive nose, buttery Chardonnay (more butter than I expected from a Chablis) cut nicely by sweet stone fruit scents. Palate rich and complex, creamy butter and peach fruits, with a lovely acidic backbone, and some nice minerality. A bit less mineral backbone than I expected from the man who used to make wine for Billaud-Simon, it’s an enjoyable wine which lacks a bit of the backbone I’d expect from a good Chablis. It was a warm night and I wasn’t keeping it chilled, so possibly it was slightly over-warm. I have another bottle, it’ll be interesting to see whether it has the minerality I expected.
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Thanks. You’ve corrected a misapprehension explained to me by a vineyard owner in Sancerre, back when my French was not as good as it is now.
Silex/flint remains the difference between the best vineyards of Sancerre, and between Sancerre and neighbouring Pouilly-Fumé (so called because it’s a hill of chalk whose white dust appears to ‘smoke’ in the wind)
Limestone can seemingly be almost any colour. Australia’s Terra Rossa of Coonawarra is - as the name suggests - very red, due to its iron content. Marble of course is famously colourful.
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I always wondered where Pouilly-Fume got it slightly unusual name. Never occurred to me that geology would be behind it.
As for colour, yes, the variations are almost endless. In the UK, compare the warm browns of Cotswold stone with the dull grey of Portland stone (after which Portland cement is named). These, like the Loire, are all Jurassic limestones.
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There are other explanations - grey bloom on the grapes and/or the smell of the wine.
Tonight’s wine which we will be having with turbot steaks, Jersey Royals and fennel gratin. As ever with Burgundy the winemaker is paramount and although this is a humble Bourgogne Blanc, in Fichet’s hands he makes a wine that I think is better than many higher classified whites
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We should really be in Provence at the moment. However it’s not so bad here and at at nearly 9.30 it’s not too cold. I’m in the garden hoping to see the bats once they come out. This Austrian Zweigelt is good company.
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Lockdown claret:
Decanted an hour before eating; beef skirt and new potatoes with asparagus. It improved over the evening and became quite quaffable. 1/3 left for today.
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Cricket Riesling: reliving the cricket World Cup final on the radio. I last tasted this in October 2018 when I thought it was too acidic. Today, it’s straw colour is inviting, with an oily nose, mellowed acids, and almost peachey taste. It was worth the wait. Here are the notes from the vineyard.
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Sherry-esque (flor, criadera system), made from the obscure Perruna grape in Malaga. Smells sweet, tastes dry. Liked it a lot.
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A little place I often have lunch with clients in Sydney was selling some of the stock, picked up this cheaply Les Greilles 2017, have no idea what what it is but it’s all in French. Think it’s a blend from the Gaillac region, rather nice.
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We had a glass of NZ Sauvingnon Blanc first, then a glass of this with our salade Nicoise:
Old vines Grenache from the Barossa Valley, Aus., made by Bethany Wines. Fruity, light coloured and spirity. Intense and glycerol smooth. With an abv of 14.8% once again it is senior management only. And as you see, it was on special.
It interested me and is not the sort of wine we are used to drinking.
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Just checked to make sure and yes, I have one bottle of 2008 and one bottle of 2015 Leoville Barton in my wine fridge…
Best
David
The ‘08 is lovely now…
Castell d’Encus Acusp 2017 Pinot Noir Spain
This Pinot is grown at 1000m altitude in northern Spain. It’s fermented with local yeasts and in stone lagares and finished in French barrels. It is light in colour. On the nose there are cherries and spice and some herbal notes including fennel. Light to medium bodied it dances across the palate. Only 12.5% alcohol and a delight to drink with Afghani roast lamb.
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Cotes du Rhône village, 2113, tonight.
Paul Jaboulet Aine - it’s getting better each time I try it.
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Not sherry because from Montilla and made from PX grapes. But it could be - tremendously subtle nose, dry, saline, penetrating taste. Excellent.
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