I think that current and power reserves are key. Perhaps there is a possible analogy between power (watts) and current in amplifiers and power (bhp) and torque (lb ft) in engines? High current supplies in an amplifier control speaker drivers whilst strong torque = pulling power and grunt.
I quoted the review measurements largely to show the difference between XS2 and XS3 and how much closer XS3 now is to SN2/SN3 in terms of power. As for current, Naim quote a max current consumption as 400va for the SN3 and 350va for the XS3 if that means anything? The XS2 was 290va max if that puts things into context?
FWIW i own a SuperUniti. Bought It mmm 3 years ago or so. The choice was between a SU and the XS3, well the SU blew the XS3 away.
Way better overall, as an amplifier and don’t forget the lovely UPnP connection.
After much deliberation I made a decision and my new amplifier arrived in the post this morning. An ex-demo XS3 from Music Matters.
I’ve yet to set it up and plug it in (it was cold out of the delivery van) but it looks to be in as new condition. Also, the serial number suggests it is a 2022 year build so that’s a bonus.
Many thanks. I’ve had it playing in the background since about lunch time - it’s certainly very good. The bass was slightly ‘overblown’ for my taste but this has settled down - now it integrates well yet provides a solid, propulsive foundation to the music.
I find the OP’s selection of speakers confusing. Are they possibly interfering with each other? I may be a mathematician, though an audiophile I do not pretend to be. Should we return to basics with a simpler speaker system that suits an SN3? There appear to be too many variables, in my pretty flawed opinion.
Just to clarify, I only have one pair of speakers in place at any one time.
I purchased an XS3 and I am very pleased with it. First I used it with my Piegas and the clarity of those speakers (AMT tweeters, small drivers and aluminium columns) worked well with the amplifier: certainly a good pairing.
In the last few weeks I have been using it with my Tannoy Revolution Signatures. Compared with the Piegas the top-end is less open and sweet (despite extending up to 45khz) and they certainly benefit in terms of extension and scale from the use of stereo subwoofers (high level connection from each speaker). However, they have a rhythmic snap and a slightly dry bass that works very well with the XS3 and shows of its tonal richness. Being dual-concentric, their point source nature really helps with imaging, cohesion and naturalness with instruments suspended across the soundstage once properly dialled in.
I have not yet tried my modified Tannoy Revolution 2s or my DIY open baffle system in another room as the latter requires a lot of integration with the amplifier that drives all the bass sections.
Dear Alex, are you able to supply any impedance curves for your speakers as I work from a mathematical basis?
I would require the frequency range of each speaker pair.
Minimum impedance of each speaker pair
The wattage capability of each speaker pair
db SPL of each speaker pair
This would be a starting point for me as I live in Australia and am unfamiliar with the speakers that you have mentioned.
I have a pair of Celestion SL6Si from the late 1980s, which have had the woofers replaced from PVC to Kevlar and the aluminium dome tweers replaced to aluminium ribbon tweeters and repacked with speaker wadding by a local (2,000 klms away) audio audiophile speaker repair shop. The SPL db of these speakers is 84 dB SPL, and I should have purchased an SN2 at the time, according to my spreadsheets. Though I could not squeeze the extra $2kAUD out of my bank account, the NAIT XS2 amplifier sounded great. It has not missed a beat, performed extremely well and satisfying for the last ten years. Though in the back of my mind, mathematically, I should have gone with the SN2 for extra headroom for music I rarely listen to, that being classical.
I hope this helps.
If you are in my position and your speakers have a low dB SPL, then go for the SNx series of amplifiers. If their minimum impedance drops below four ohms, then you will be looking at separates, whether they be New Classics or Old Classics.
I hope this holds up as a rule of thumb until you find the necessary specifications to share with the group and myself.
