Malla…in Hebrew we say Sohiaaa shoiaaa as a slang,meaning slowly slowly I will do it …as you say,what I like about you …like yours answers they are clear.
Someone in the forum maybe uses Naim Powerigel (Music line) if so …how does it compares to other powerblock on the market?
In my experience cleaner and more dynamic, better timing and greater detail plus more tonal/textural accuracy. Where the latter is concerned I find it preferable to the Powerigel Plus (and anything using Powerlines). The Sean Jacobs Powerblock is aldo very good.
Whats the different between Powerigel Plus and regular Powerigel ? Im confused
Michael post, on Musicworks thread.
Interesting. A couple of years ago I tried the predecessor block and found it significantly less dynamic, more congested and less detailed than my Powerigel.
I also like the idea of less fuses and contacts in the Powerigel design, but won’t let theory outweigh what my ears tell me.
I tried the Powerigel Plus, which is basically the same design but with Powerline cables and found that although it had a lower noise floor it also lost (classical) instrumental and vocal texture, so - to my surprise - it was a no-go. I have found the same thing with the Powerline.
Recently, the Powerblack leads from Custom Hifi Cables impressed me so I have ordered one of their distribution blocks (similar to a Powerigel but square and with exactly the number of cables you require - the Powerigel starts from six). I’ll report back when I get it.
I’m not really tempted by this new Musicworks block, since it really would have to be very much better than its predecessor to match the Powerigel. That said, has anyone compared the two?
Some here wireworld matrix 2. But didn’t see this one on the forum.
For the same price I use the excellent Titan Eros.
Looks like that WireWorld includes filtered outlets. Usually filtering does not work with Naim. See also Isol-8 Powerline and Powerline Plus.
Meni, I don’t recognise this Wire World block. Try and search out the Wire World Matrix 2. I have two of them and they offer decent value at £125 the last time I bought one in the UK.
That is what I have - keep it simple and inexpensive at first is my advice.
Find out what a good basic block does before spending ten times more - it seems to work well enough for my system. Also the plug-in sequence is possible - often thrown away - wrongly IMO - by the attempt to star-wire the block, which I’m nit sure really improves things over a good construction and quality contacts.
DB.
Did you also add powerline to wall or anything else?
I did have a PowerLine from my Matrix 2 to the wall and if offered a decent uplift over a ‘stock’ power lead. I have now moved that PL to power my posh ReFlex Ultra G3 power block. But as DB suggests, start out with a good basic block (the WW Martix 2) with a decent basic power lead first. If you already have a PL, then you could try it on a Matrix 2 and see what it does, but you might find a PL does more elsewhere in your system, directly powering a Naim Black Box for instance.
I use a Powerline to the block - since it is a nice way to add an extra one!
At the time a friend said they had found benefit so I did that as I like the Powerline effect - and for what you have been complaining about it will help. Even though in this case it makes the whole purchase more expensive - the cable costing three times the block.
To begin with not essential to keep cost down initially, but try one later.
The Powerline I found quietens boxes down from injecting their noise back onto the mains circuit to get into the other equipment.
Most people seem to have the totally wring idea that noise mainly comes from outside their house and HiFi, when it actually is generated inside the power supply by mains-rectification; shorting the mains at 100Hz (UK) into a near short-circuit, the reservoir caps, causes large current spikes orders of magnitude higher than anything from outside all the time.
…anyway, having these Powelines on boxes with the larger transformers I find removes a layer of high-frequency hash-noise when on Power Amps - and on boxes which feed digital components; the effecy is different but also worthwhile elsewhere. There is a transient negative ‘dull’ effect for a day or two as the settle-in but that goes.
DB.
A lot of users do use filter power blocks. The advice against them is somewhat outdated. Technology has improved, whilst noise pollution within the home has greatly increased due to cheap power charging blocks etc. it is easy enough to measure your mains noise with a meter to see if there is an high level of mains noise that is masking the noise floor.
Having said that, at your level you might be better with a non-filtered power block and then consider a seperate dedicated power filter if the need is there.
Naturally only my experience but also a lot of comments in previous forum. It also depends from filtering and/or RF way to do things. It was an issue 2-3 years ago. Wondering why not now anymore? Cheap blocks were working fine without filtering, more expensive with filtering not.
I think there is two issues primarily. Firstly there are a lot more sources of mains pollution in the home now, cheap phone chargers etc and general mains noise getting into the system from the home or within the street supply.
Secondly, the filter technology is much better, There certainly are reports that a poor quality filter will make dynamics worse, but there are good options now that will reduce the noise floor significantly by removing mains noise without compromising dynamics. I use IsoTek power blocks with good results.
I expect it’s very case specific, but a main noise meter will determine whether there is a mains issues, and then options are available to improve things if needed.
Sorry but WTF is one of those?
Like the Isotek Aquarius, a full black box sized power filter and distribution board for high current loads.
I am sure filtering technology has moved on but is this Isotek any good with Naim gear, which seems particularly fussy about power blocks and filtering within them.