2x555DR vs. 1x555DR on a ND555

Second ps is 4 days now…today I couldn’t listen,sound was really bad I stoped the music …yesterday was quiet good …need patience

1 Like

Ten days with my second 555ps,sound is aggressive not enjoyable…probably still brake in,cannot listen to music

Shouldn’t sound that bad…

Have you checked all connections?

What’s it all installed on?

Are you still using your cheap powerblock ?

Powerblock ?? What do you mean?powerstrip

In your something missing thread, you were showing a cheap white powerblock with your system. Some naim components were stacking on each other and there was a big metal box with tv between your speakers.

You mean powerstrip …not familiar with the word powerblock okey understood,with the same powerblock I still enjoyed before getting my second ps,

You have no idea I feel how better all would be sounding with the pre, and ps on a quality powerstrip. As musicworks or powerigel.

The FR is right….

3 Likes

Which powerstrip you recommend?

Musicworks
Eros titan
Powerigel ( Music line)

I find a separate power block/strip what ever you will call it was essential for my two 555PS running.
Meaning - if I did not do it the sound was also ‘aggressive and not enjoyable’ - along with numerous other unpleasant qualities.

I run my wall socket to a strip/block and the first thing plugged-in is the Pre - then the Analogue (A) 555PS the a gap of an empty socket, then at the end the (D) Digital 555PS.

If you swap the A and D 555PS you get either a nice musical sound or harsh nasty sound so it matters.
If you don’t use a block then you lose any control over sequencing and it become a chance result - in my case a lot worse again. This was probably more critical to get right with my CD555 with two supplies than with ND555, but I just kept the config that worked well with the CD555 when I swapped to ND555.

It should be noted that mine is an Active system which tends to reveal differences rather more starkly as to what is better or worse - a mixed quality at times, but once you get used to having to set things up a bit more rigorously with attention to details it is very rewarding when you have it right.

Just information - try it if you have not.
Essentially you are wanting the Pre and (A)555PS mains to be more directly connected - then a longer stand-off to the (D)555PS so that the transient noise it back-injects can be stood-off a bit.

Rather than the usual arguments about it making no difference, which are pointless, give it a go - just takes a little time to try.

DB.

2 Likes

I did this when I got my 2nd PS - this was the scribble I made…

2 Likes

Your advice is always sound. No pun intended.

1 Like

have you tried it with the Cisco off the block? That was better in my system

Strange to me…is this order is so important?

I tried and found it better on the block. Only me of course.

1 Like

The sequence is important. Mains is not DC but the largest AC signal current and voltage modulated by your HiFi nearest your HiFi - so you will be thinking ‘why would it not be in consideration?

Using the above diagram approach I use:

House Mains:
All my Cisco stuff

HiFi Mains:
Bank of Wall sockets:
All the Power Amps and Melco
‘Middle’ wall socket pair:
Snaxo SC supply
Dis-board:
Empty
Empty
S1 Pre
555PS - A
Empty
555PS - D

I arrange the sequence so that everything is daisy-chained and the ‘return-path’ loops between the boxes via their supplies do not form a mesh but rather a series of loops one to the other. The HF current equations are less complex and it to be sounds cleanest and most dynamic.

The loop is made by any electrical contact: so mains and signal will be part of a potential loop through the HiFi and its supply. There are no perfect insulators - always a path especially at HF - the HiFi is most wide-open at certain HF frequencies and will contain components that will both turn circulating currents into voltages inside the box but also provide a non-linearity to allow inter-modulation between close frequencies down into audio-band - and you will hear it as various kinds of noise.

HiFi tries to design it away - but nothing can be perfect as we have to work with boxes with seams and components with inductance.

The reason I put my Power Amps onto the wall sockets direct is that they are noisiest as they are the only non class A supplies. They draw high music-dependent dynamic currents that will create IR drop voltages invoked into the other boxes it they have to be pulled through the block - so the block ‘floats’ or ‘rides’ as a kind of raft seeing the same voltage (the voltage noise on the mains supply created by the Power Amp class AB supplies) and null-referencing it out as it will be the same for all items plugged into the block - they are all class A.
Digital supplies create their own issues but have far lower currents so you can find a place for them with some care.

Try experimenting and see.

I devised my approach based on work I’d done with instrumentation amplifiers where injected noise reduction is critical - it was a place to begin testing, but any other approach that sounds better is by that deduction ‘better’.

DB

4 Likes

Yes and prefer middle in block and use a Powerline for it too.

Very interesting. Could you post a photo to clarify the wall mains arrangements and the strip/block?

Phil