Block (Wireworld Matrix 2) has mains-in via Powerline left - then empty, empty, S1, 555PS(A), Empty, 555PS(D) right.
The empty ‘gaps’ were found by experiment. For example with the Wireworld 1 block there was only one empty before the Pre and two ‘Empty’ gaps before the 555PS(D).
It is down to - IMO- the inductance of the wiring in the block. This block uses a bus and the inductance is different - and the S1 Pre want a gap from the noise of the three 500 Amps.
I will ahead hobby my own block - I have ideas!
Perhaps why so many people find mains blocks transform their system performance.
How you decide to mesh your high-current noise flows and their associated magnetic fields and EM radiation and the interaction with the nearest dielectric may matter.
LH Fraim is ND555.
RH Fraim is (top to bottom): Melco, 555PS(D), 555PS(A)
Melco does not go into block but instead to HiFi wall array of mains double-sockets.
You see various cables (Naim SL, AQ Vodka- all just not touching and hanging freely.
Thanks for your photo and words. Not quite sure how the wall sockets are arranged and spaced.
I am demoing the MusicWorks Reflex Ultra G3 with sparkly base. Like others I found it helps reduce noise. As I only had 1 Powerline and 2 Isotek Optimums before, replacing the non PLs with PLs made a significant difference and then allowed the G3 to do its job better. PL to the Innuos Zenith into nDAC via Audiophilleo + PurePower USB to spdif was a surprising improvement. So 6 new PLs!
As you may know the G3 has live and return rings and star wired earth. The cables are cryogenically treated. It seems to work compared to 5 double wall sockets daisy chained. I must remove the G3 soon and see what the sound difference is. The 500 PS hum is hardly noticeable unless there is noise on the mains. It was slightly louder before the G3 and PLs.
So just wondering about the double wall sockets now with
The Aria with RP10/Aphelion is I think capable of a bit more but it might be turntable isolation I need to look at. The vinyl is good but just a bit soft.
I’ve tried 500 into block - in my system awful boomy sound so no.
I’ve heard 500 on a friends G3 block - boomy all over the place - then moved it (the 500) back to wall and excellent - bass all tight and control back.
With my Dealer - the same as above.
So use the block for all non-Power Amp plugs and it gives you benefits.
As I have 3x 500 Active they work best into a wall. I have the two Bass 500 Amps in one double wall-socket, then the next wall-wired double-socket has the snaxo and the lead to my block, then the next double wall-socket has the BMR 500 Amp.
As you perhaps see I’m continuing my ‘daisy-chain’ concept on into the wall ring.
Just what I find works well for me.
Try other configurations - may be better or worse, but try is my advice to anyone having problems with SQ that has not done this test, which was the reason for my post on this thread.
Of course people can ‘know’ it makes no difference and not try - or try and really know what it all does.
I may at some point try a new block, but I want one designed for 3-way Active and that may require different optimization.
This is how I changed to day the ordered in my block…on the left side is my real pic .on the right side I wrote my order as it is… is it right or wrong? sound to day was good…cisco is on a other block
From what you draw - try just moving the 500 off the block onto the wall socket next to one feeding the block - listen - then if better leave it there, if worse return to block.
You will also ahead be rewarded using a better block, as the more revealing HiFi tends to run-up against what the block allows.
I’m probably using the bare minimum grade with the Wireworld block - it is cheap and easy to get.
Other more expensive blocks will most probably be a lot better from all the credible reports I hear, but I’d use your existing one optimised first - then at least get the next level up and you may be surprised at the extra clarity you get.
Malla…in Hebrew we say Sohiaaa shoiaaa as a slang,meaning slowly slowly I will do it …as you say,what I like about you …like yours answers they are clear.
In my experience cleaner and more dynamic, better timing and greater detail plus more tonal/textural accuracy. Where the latter is concerned I find it preferable to the Powerigel Plus (and anything using Powerlines). The Sean Jacobs Powerblock is aldo very good.
Interesting. A couple of years ago I tried the predecessor block and found it significantly less dynamic, more congested and less detailed than my Powerigel.
I also like the idea of less fuses and contacts in the Powerigel design, but won’t let theory outweigh what my ears tell me.
I tried the Powerigel Plus, which is basically the same design but with Powerline cables and found that although it had a lower noise floor it also lost (classical) instrumental and vocal texture, so - to my surprise - it was a no-go. I have found the same thing with the Powerline.
Recently, the Powerblack leads from Custom Hifi Cables impressed me so I have ordered one of their distribution blocks (similar to a Powerigel but square and with exactly the number of cables you require - the Powerigel starts from six). I’ll report back when I get it.
I’m not really tempted by this new Musicworks block, since it really would have to be very much better than its predecessor to match the Powerigel. That said, has anyone compared the two?