The older DS / DSM players had it too, even the entry-level Sneaky DS from 2008 which was about £750 IIRC.
@ryder That new Majik DSM was introduced just a few weeks ago, so should have a good product lifetime ahead of it.
Note that the modern Linn players use a digital volume control instead of analogue pre-amp and some people find them lacking because of it, so I’d recommend a dem.
It is very interesting, though even the basic Select, to fit a “separates” system, is pretty pricey as an addition to a system that already includes a DAC that is far better than Linn’s basic included one. I suppose the cost is not dissimilar to comprehensive acoustic treatment including active bass traps, but acoustic treatment can be done in stages. I await that lottery win! (Note to self: o remember to occasionaly buy a ticket.)
Other DSP options are available, Roon and Dirac Live for example. And Linn’s SO works best with speakers they’ve measured/parameterised, as they say themselves. Spendor models are included in the list of supported models, but not the A2 of the OP.
I am not an expert in this, by any means, just mentioning that Linn SO isn’t the only game in town.
I think, but could be wrong, the OP just wants some speakers more appropriate to their new context. I have no doubt that Roon, Dirac or SO, could bring great benefits, but there’s a time and financial investment required that not everyone wants to make.
@Charles hopefully you have some ideas now, do you know what you might do at this point? Good luck whatever path you decide to take 
Indeed, and Trinnov, and they all do using resl-world measurements (which automatically takes any/all speaker into account) - but if seems Linn’s processing may be much more far more sophisticated.
It could well be, I wonder in practice if it needs to be though? As I said, I’m no expert, just wonder at the appetite for such solutions. I’m not saying there is no appetite, as the response on here clearly shows there is, but perhaps something like the CI-102 approach would be “good enough” to fix the majority of gross room issues?
This is a well used and very helpful forum, although I sometimes wonder if we scare new (or infrequent) members away with so many responses Maybe it’s a bit daunting. Anyway, better that than no response at all.
Hi OP . My room is no bigger than yours . However, I tweak my speakers , toeing in and out, left and right (with very very limited space ), in the end , my speakers are barely 20 cm away from the back wall. After experimenting , finally it settled down. No boomy, no traps , a very very subtle reflections , unnoticeable .
Tweak your speakers , it helps .. let it stay for a day or 2 w new positioning, if not ideal toe/tweak again. Rinse and repeat 
The impression I have generally on this forum is that there is no widespread appetite for doing any form of treatment, except when there are issues very obvious to the individual manifest themselves (like excessive harshness in the treble, or bass boom etc). Rather I suspect most are quite simply blissfully unaware of how much better systems might sound if rooms were judiciously treated (as some of the treatment threads have indicated people discovering) or how much less costly and more effective a room upgrade might be compared to the same or even more money spent on black box and cable changes…
I have always felt that improve acoustics room treatment should come first, and DSP used to finalise, but the descriptions here suggest that Linn’s SO can get closer to the effect of actual treatment than might others, which if true is what makes it interesting, doubly so where physical treatment maybe of very limited domestic acceptability. But I think it has been said that it only treats the bass, if so that leaves other optimisation open.
Thanks to everyone who has commented here. For me room treatment, DSP, is not of interest. I just can’t be bothered and would sooner adjust speakers manually until I get what I like. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to do this with the A2s. Admittedly when I first had them they seemed okay but over a period of time I have found them fatiguing , yes my fault but so what - a balls up. Before that I had ATC SCM11s that were okay. I got them for the proverbial good price but in cherry which over a period of time, if memory serves me correct a certain person with a fishy handle made a good call on what the colour was like. But I hardly lost anything on them.
Before that it was tab 10s that I found weedy and lacking in bass, ironically and before that PMC 21/20. So that’s the last 15 years or so. I like the sound of Neat and have demoed the Petite and Ministra. Then there is also the PMC 25/21 and the Prodigy 1 ( never listened to this) and ATC SCM7 (not in cherry).
So that is where I am at. Thanks to everyone again and if I remember I will post what happens.
Which is exactly where other suggestions like DSP came from!
I’m sure, but not for me.
You can have sometimes dramatic changes with cables or amps choices. Room treatment is not the only way, always, to cure issues.
Recently, a swap of power cords and powerblock cured dramatically the bass issues in my system and room, going from uncontrolled and bloated to quite tight and clear.
In the past , changing the amp cured also some acoustic problems.
Just to say that only focusing on acoustic treatment is not forcefully the only way.
I have to agree, I had great results with better interconnects for instance. I partially solved some bass issues I had and didn’t expect that improvement. A pleasant surprise in my case.
I concur. For me, moving to Spendor 7.2 from A4 and replacing interconnects from EpicX to SarumT have radically improved SQ. Tomorrow an upgraded Isotek will be installed. I gave up on room treatments years ago. I am not saying they did not help, but our living room became unsightly and unsafe to easily walk through.
For us, the construction materials (plaster, concrete and cinder block) work against us.
I hesitate to contribute much more here, however given the most recent three posts I thought I might add some supporting comments.
Hi @frenchrooster , of course changing an amplifier can change the sound (hopefully for the better) as the new amplifier should have better control of the complex impedance of the loudspeaker driver(s). In my own case, an already very good amplifier (ATI 4005) was surpassed by the Linn 800 Mono pair. This was to be expected simply by looking at specifications alone. Furthermore, depending on the originally supplied quality of electronics, it’s almost a given that a lower impedance reduced noise power supply I will improve things.
As regards cables, @Jaybar and @Blacknote seem to have had the same experience that I had in exploring different interconnect cables (FYI, I now use a few Sarum T in different places). However, the benefit that I have is that I can see what these improvements are by measuring the things and noting the effects on the acoustics (sound).
The engineering reality is that small differences in interconnects will potentially amend the phase vs frequency response which, after all the other bits, changes the interference pattern in the room and in an UNTREATED ROOM magnify these changes and consequently the sound experienced.
It may amuse the forum members here to be informed that during a recent cable test, Sarum T XLR interconnect was rated in sound quality as equivalent to some cheap RCA terminated micro coax. The reason - test was conducted in my acoustically treated room.
@Innocent_Bystander is correct, the most dominant sound influencing element in any HiFi system is the room.
Speaking about XLR, I wonder if it’s worth investing in that cable.
I tried a cheap 100 euros XLR that was not ashamed by an 1k signature tuned array. The difference was very tiny.
The DIn RCA from source to pre seems to give much more difference.
As power cables too.
One thing that hasn’t been mentioned is speaker stand height and mass.. this can and often has a marked effect on frequency response of a standmount speaker… though can be hard to optimise, though I find SolidSteel stands quite good hear as you can adjust the lossiness of the speaker support with the main part of the stand.. which in turns adjusts the resonance of the stand.. which can be effective at adjusting the low end response.
Also open frame stands tend to have less bass weight and sound faster… which might help.
With regard to bass ports.. the only stipulation with a port is that it needs to be at least its diameter away from the speaker boundary. There are mis conceptions on the directions of ports, such as rear wall facing has more bass.. this is not so… with bass frequencies they tend to emanate 360 degrees or spherically around a speaker, and as the frequencies increase they projection becomes more directional with respect to the drivers.
One thing with rear facing points, is that the mid frequencies can leak through the port (depending on speaker design) and reflect of the rear surface and start to cause interference and cancellation issues with the more forward facing mid frequencies from the drivers … absorbing panels or furnishings behind the speakers can mitigate this.
Good point @Simon-in-Suffolk, I just remembered that I mass loaded my speakers some months ago, it worked beautifully too. Bass became excellent and tamed correctly while mantaining a good and open soundstage.
Let’s not forget that also a firmware (eg. 3.11) can determine substantial improvements on bass control, but this is another story.
I can understand this - for me, when I had a difficult room there was only so much I could achieve with speaker positioning, domestically acceptable room treatments, and DSP without reducing sound quality.
Unexpectedly, the big improvement I found was a preamp upgrade. When I put a NAC282 in my system the biggest benefit was tighter, better controlled bass. Problems I had previously attributed to room dimensions virtually disappeared.
I can’t promise this approach will work for everyone of course, but if you are considering system upgrades you may find that improving the electronics, especially the preamp, is a good place to start before you look at other areas.
Upgrades have helped me too, although the bass hump was still there, it was less obvious and annoying.