Your missing my point I think the hydra in my opinion is the most ropey bodge I’ve ever seen in the hobby and wouldn’t plug it in my house.
Proper distribution from the house mains into properly terminated plugs and sockets are the best option.
Not some spliced and fudged to fit monstrosity. 
2 Likes
It’s CE approved, this means it meets all the regulations required. The plug is fitted with a 13amp fuse so you cannot exceed the safe limit. 
4 Likes
It states clearly on the Government site that CE marking is only legal if the product complies with required safety regulations in the UK. One can therefore assume that the Graham’s Hydra is perfectly safe to use since it is CE certified. If this were not the case then Graham’s would be committing a criminal offence every time they sold one.
There are of course many ways to skin the proverbial cat. This is just one, and it’s really not possible - well of course it’s possible but it’s not sensible - to say that your way is ‘the best’ way. It’s simply your way.
1 Like
With the greatest respect, please don’t turn my post/topic into a Health & Safety issue.
Putting the Hydra to one side, ‘one socket for one plug’, is not physically possible in most homes.
Having separate sockets for an electric toothbrush, phone charger, iPad charger, cordless phone, router, table lamp, Christmas tree lights etc etc…is ridiculous.
I get it, if you were plugging in kettles, toasters portable heaters in one power strip.
2 Likes
I merely replied to your suggestion on one of your options hence forum discussion I mentioned why in my opinion one of your options seemed not to my taste and realistically if you have to use a strip as these are intended for temporary use and isolated when appropriate.
Even a good MK duraplug will give you better results than anything with electronics in-line.
I was only trying to save you ridiculous expense for a product IMO does not cut it on manufacturing quality.
Plug in what you like but don’t jump on people trying to do you a turn you did ask for opinions.
So presumably you have you taken the Grahams Hydra apart to assess the manufacturing quality?
Did you take any pictures, if so please share?
It’s obvious to anyone with sense how it’s made
It’s the next best thing to taking mains wires and tape joining them all together
But it’s done with splice solder joints and heat shrink sleeving.
Just like most of the fudged up oversized cables that are shaved down and decorated to fit plugs not intended.
It’s common sense.
Out of interest, what is the (practical) difference between these two images?
All four sockets for a given pin are joined together in both examples. The bus bar in the lower diagram is effectively the same as the join point in the radial diagram above it, no?
I can accept that plugging into a multi board/adaptor introduces an extra connection (potential weakness, if you’ll excuse the pun) compared with directly plugging into an outlet. But a bus bar is intended to overcome just that by making every connection to a common rail.
OK, so you are basically bad mouthing a product which has been sold for many years by a very respected dealership and you haven’t even taken the trouble to inspect it before posting.
That’s nice and clear then.
3 Likes
Exactly how a cheapo Pro-Elec multi-gang extension lead is made for about £10.99. I had one here and it took apart to confirm my suspicions and inside it there were three fully formed brass bus bars, albeit cheap and flimsy ones.
I find out hard to understand the difference between:
1 wiring multiple wall outlets on the same circuit
or
2 wiring multiple outlets on a plug board
Apart from one extra connection, what is the difference, for example, between wiring three outlets in your wall and this:
Or are you recommending multiple wall outlets with each on its own circuit. (Although frankly even that is just pushing the common rail they share back to the distribution board, is it not?)
You are perfectly entitled to express your opinion and this is a public forum but you are stating that the product does not cut it on manufacturing quality yet clearly you have never inspected the said product. You seem to be turning opinion to fact. This helps nobody.
This is very similar to posts from people who express an opinion that speaker X sounds better than speaker Y and then you discover that this is based on hearsay or product reviews and they haven’t seen or heard the speaker.
1 Like
Well said. Expressing an opinion is one thing.
But attacking or belittling others, for holding another view, is not on. Its called an Ad Hominem attack.
1 Like
There are no terminals in one of these there is no other way to construct it.
Spliced and joined wires inside heatshrink if your happy with that then sleep well.
A good friend of mine once had one after being raved about and was disgusted when he got it so was much cheaper to put in another double socket thus meeting all the termination regulations that keep his home insurance valid.
Plugs and sockets and proper termination connectors are manufactured for a reason.
If your not interested in your own safety that’s up to you.
Some spend thousands on high end systems then connect it with this.
Good luck.
Well it seems to me you certainly live up to your name and avatar - is there anything you do like?
Oh! And by the way that was a rhetorical question!
And as Anne Robinson used to say - Goodbye!
2 Likes
Lols. Well said.
You might like to make use of the Forum facility to Ignore or Mute… 
I did…
(I do appreciate Forum Users identifying themselves like this… )
1 Like
I like everything I do safely.
In my opinion these type of connectors are the weakest link Goodbye. 
Interesting
A double socket added to the wall, presumably on the same circuit as the existing outlet/s. Each outlet can take single 13A plug. That’s a very high total potential current on that one circuit.
Whereas using a plug board the whole board cannot exceed 13A.
I hope the circuit can handle the extra load.
1 Like
The path to earth for the socket on the far right is longer than the socket on the far left. Each socket has a different length path meaning a (slightly) different resistance.
Whether this resistance is appreciable with different tarnishing on the plug pins/socket, different spring tension on the sockets etc. etc. is another question.
And whether it makes any difference to the sound quality is a whole other question.