Crikey that’s really splitting hairs isn’t it, given the total distance from the bus bar to actual earth would be lots of metres.
And whether it makes any difference to the sound quality is a whole other question.
I guess I just don’t have the motivation or interest to find out!
Trouble with an un-switched socket is every time one plugs in or out there is a certain amount of arching going on and this also deteriorates the connections over time. The hydra seems the lesser of all evils in that respect.
Maybe. Everything being the same distance/resistance from earth is (probably) fine within reason.
Having a delta between paths to earth is what Naim’s star earthing approach within the pre-amps (and I guess other devices) tried to minimise. I must admit when I constructed a distribution board I did take care for all the connections to be the same length; it only cost a little effort.
But, like you, I’ve not had sufficient interest to experiment; my ears are probably too old to appreciate the differences and my system not optimally setup anyway!
You only get arcing if there is a drawing current.
There is no arcing if there is no demand pulling current.
Example
Plug in electric fire and pull out plug when switched at appliance = arc
Pull out plug when appliance is switched off = no arc. 
If the socket is live you will get arching regardless of whether the product is switched on or not. Try doing this at night with all the lights off. Just the act of the plug going in slightly wonky will arch.
No current draw no arc.
Your obviously not an electrician.
If your getting a flash from a socket then what it’s plugged into has to be switched on.
No i’m not an electrician just my observation. But i’m willing to stand corrected in a pleasant way. No need to be rude.
I am an electrician " retired "
No offence meant but really.
Amazing how after being asked an opinion on an open forum question creates such vitriol.
If I’m asked an opinion and I answer with what I believe to be safe and sound advice then take it or leave it.
No need for all and sundry to get all defensive about their decision or trying to justify something else.
Come on everyone, let’s stay calm and respectful. It’s only mains connections we are talking about here.
I have five items that need to be plugged in. The plug on the right is the end of my Grahams Hydra, to which my NAT02, NDX2 and Supernait 3 are connected. The plug on the left is a bespoke Hungryhalibut Hydra, the HHH, which connects to my Rega P10PS and Aria 3. It’s a neat and cheap solution.
I remember reading somewhere on the old forum (which seemed logical to me) that the main advantages with the hydra lead is the elimination of the many 13-amp fuses and screw type connections - many here confirmed an upgrade in performance as opposed to using multiple sockets. I’d be interested in hearing if a hydra lead has been made using PowerLines? Be a shame to butcher them up but…
Yes, the top end Musicline Powerigel used Naim Powerlines in place of the standard Naim leads used in the basic model.
Hi and no disrespect meant.
I’m not going to get into all the technical reasons as to why terminations are better than joins but regardless of sound then one has to keep oneself in the line of regulation to keep insurance cover for your treasured possessions.
I worked once with a chap who was an insurance fire investigator and the first thing looked for to disallow a claim was at a fire seat is was there any phone chargers or hairdryers,tongs or extension leads.
That’ll reach me help.
AFAIK there’s no safety issues with the Grahams Hydra. Indeed, IIRC it is CE marked (OK, just checked and it is - see picture) which means that the manufacturer “affirms the good’s conformity with European health, safety, and environmental protection standards”.
Naim themselves have used and recommended Hydras for years and used to have their own special ones housed within Olive full sized cases for use at shows. They wouldn’t have touched them if there were any issues over safety. I’m not aware of any properly made (Grahams, Musicline the al.) hydras ever having caused any safety issue. It’s a small and close knit community here so after 30 years, I’m pretty sure we would have heard about one if it had ever happened.
Hi Richard
This was covered some time ago.
I was asked an opinion and tried to answer in the most sensible and safe way according to my opinion and qualifications.
Mains electricity is the most dangerous and important connection in any system but seems to be trivialised to a dangerous degree.
Now that’s cheating!
I agree re. the mains and I saw your post. Mains should certainly never be trivialised which is why its a subject that’s heavily moderated here, particularly where there’s any discussion of potentially unsafe practice.
As you say, the CE mark does not indicate that a product has been approved as safe by the EU. But that also does not mean it’s unsafe. The CE mark means that the manufacturer affirms the good’s conformity with European health, safety, and environmental protection standards.
IIRC, Musicline went even further and jumped through all sorts of regulatory and certification hoops for their Powerigel hydra.
The Grahams Hydra has been made by Grahams Hifi for many years, with Naim’s endorsement. Grahams are one of the country’s top Naim dealers and it’s really disrespectful to suggest that they may be selling something that’s unsafe. They have sold goodness knows how many over the years and I’ve certainly never read of any safety fears. It needs to be kept in perspective, as the Hydra simply spends its life sitting on the floor powering low wattage equipment. It’s not like it’s on a boat or a tank or in a plane.
All too often people come up with the ‘I’m a retired electrician / electrical engineer and therefore I know best’. As I wrote above, it’s rather ridiculous, or maybe simply pompous, to assert that one’s way is the best way or the only way. Slagging things off because someone, or someone’s mate, ‘thinks’ there might be an issue is just wrong. It’s just made up scaremongering, based on nothing but supposition.
Did you just take the plugs off those 2 items and wire them together into an MK plug?
