Nice good call. Will check them out.
BD
Looks great Big Dan and it’s really nice to see you active and getting on with these fun projects in face of all the other drama you have had to endure.
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Thanks Mike, all been done in last 2 days. Good to crack on with a positive project!
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It isn’t a problem at all but I agree if you want to absorb a lot of low frequency it needs to be thicker (and higher mass) but a decorative quilt can have a lot of material in it there is padding in a sandwich of outer layers at a minimum. It can be very noticeable in contributing to taming a room, potentially better when used on a back wall behind the listener.
It is not all about sending heaps of money on expensive audiophile kit. That may help but there are lots of things one can do to have a similar positive affect without spending lots of money. It can also be done experimentally as one has not spent a whole lot or even anything.
large blankets for instance can be folded up to make a much thicker material.
Room treatment is not the preserve of those with deep pockets and consultants with expensive measuring equipment. One can achieve a lot by experimentation of different things on the walls, ceilings and just moving the furniture.
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Exactly, just by removing fish tank it helped alot. Moving speakers, rugs and small changes helps.
I did some simple DIY stuff a few years ago and it made quite a big difference. Nothing too scientific or measured, just some basics and a bit of fun at the time. It’s a hobby for me.
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How big is your room @Dan_M ? On some picture it looks much bigger than on others.
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5 metres by 4 metres. Pics taken using wide angle.
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Hi @Hifi_Naim_CNNL,
I use for this situation, two of (Häfele Keku panel clips, without lip, black makrolon) screwed to the back of each acoustic panel. This method only works if the thickness of the TV panel correctly accommodates the gap expected by the panel clip. In my case the thickness is ~7mm. In fact any suitable panel clip would work if it has the appropriate clearance and tolerance and rated load.
The screen is fitted to an electric moving mount, available in the UK from a company called Future Automation. This aspect is independent of the acoustic covering. In fact to consider the acoustic panels to be placed on the screen I had to check the total loading of the screen plus three panels remained within the load rating of the electric mount. Luckily, it did as I had not planned this solution when I started the project.
E of E
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Yes, I’ll agree that method can most definitely help to tame a brighter room but again, too much of those types of really thin treatments is probably the biggest cause of people blaming absorption for a dead sounding room. When proper broadband absorption is used instead, you can actually install significantly more absorption in the room before the room ends up dead sounding, which in turn also helps to properly treat the lower frequencies, say ~100hz & up.
For an approx reference a 1" panel may work down to ~1000hz, 2" down to ~400hz & a 4-5" panel down to ~100hz.
But most defiantly you don’t need to spend massive sums on acoustic treatments. If your handy, absorption panels & bass traps can be made at very reasonable prices. I’m currently using DIY panels for all my absorption, with the plans of adding some diffusion & possibly more absorption in the future but will be taking measurements before doing so, & to confirm my current panels/tweak them if required. For bass traps I’m using some DIY in the rear corners of the room & then ASC IsoThermal tube traps floor to ceiling in all 4 corners as well (defiantly not budget friendly traps but they work well).
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Are you talking about using egg boxes???
Only joking, could not help myself…I agree with what you say and your project sounds interesting.
Ha! I have several egg acoustic foam pads in my listening room 
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My panels have already an adhesive fixing. But if I use this fixing method and then remove them, it will damage the wall paper.
So my asking to find a method to fix each 1 kg panel temporarily, without damaging the wall paper.
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Vicoustic do fixing kits. I went for 2 of the 3 panel Frames. Ended up with 4 screws on the walls.
Other thing you do is make a Frame and put it on legs. Fix panels to the frame.
Can you try balancing the panels against the wall, using the back of a chair to support them?
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Upon further research, some websites state you can use 3M Command on wallpaper, others state not to.
What I have done in the past is used staples to hold one of the strips in place with removing the backing paper on a delicate surface.
This way it holds to strip in place and when removed leaves just very small holes that are easily hidden.
DG….
Looking good Dan. Have you experimented bringing the sofa forward to see if that changes anything?
I used GIK but didnt go all in with measurements, I just treated the first reflection points using the mirror method on the ceiling and side walls and then treated the front corners and behind listening position. That’s probably as far as I can go without getting into measurements etc.
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You have lots of scope if you can combine! One possibility might be panels fixed behind paintings, if you can contrive some means of hanging latter, though acoustic panels have acoustically porous front panels, and if your art is oil on canvas then it will reduce the effectiveness, especially at higher frequencies. Or potentially you could get plain white panels and paint with watercolour, though that demands time, and may not be your medium.
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That is a very useful link! If not into measuring but have a willing assistant and a reasonable size mirror, they can hold the mirror flat on the wall and move it around, the reflection points being where you can see the speaker drivers (both speakers) reflected. Floor is simply laying mirror flat on floor in same way. If ceiling horizontal tgen ceiling points will be directly above floor points.