Different machines here RWC, same discs, different layers.
I would occasionally get some ERR messages on my CDX, so I cut a little circular ring out of paper as shown below and it did the trick!
(Hopefully this doesn’t fall foul of forum rules i.e. a modification 
)
It’s fine, although you’re probably better of sticking the paper circle to the discs that have been pressed thinner than redbook, otherwise it will not be optimal for all the other discs pressed top the correct red book standard.
Alternatively get a Clamp 5 and then use it for any problem discs and just be very careful when placing it or removing it from the spindle as it will stick like a limpet.
How much does putting and removing the puck contribute to transport degradation. I seem to remember there are guidelines on how to remove it so that the forces on the transport drive were not so strong
I’ll try citting a paper circle. I wonder if this issue is unique to the 3.5. It seems like if this is a known issue Naim would have offered some support to work around the issue.
Not impressive design work from the vaunted Naim design team though i do like the rest of the hardware.
Can you clarify what a “clamp S” is please?
From what I’ve read, this Sony 707ESD is still highly regarded selling for over $1,000 when one shows up . I don’t know, i don’t consider myself an audiophile but i do enjoy good music more than ever.
Clamp 5.
Ok, so what is a clamp 5?
Yeah, at first I would only use it on my “problem” discs but got lazy and just left it in place. Thanks for the info in the Clamp 5.
Clamp 5 rather than clamp 3 for 3.5?
The Clamp 3 is the correct one for a CD3.5. However, if you’re trying to play a CD that is outside of red book standard and pressed too thin around the centre, and you’re either getting skipping or ERR at the start, then using a Clamp 5 can usually help. I can’t recommend you use it all the time though as the extra magnetic force of two magnets (one on the hub, one in the clamp) can eventually tear the magnets out of their housings.
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The only thing I find odd about this is that it’s always suggested that problem discs have been pressed too thin rather than too thick. Given that my ERR discs sound very much like they’re not being gripped hard enough and slipping, that suggests to me the discs are too thick, making the magnets too far apart and, therefore, attracting less strongly and leading to slipping.
So what aren’t I appreciating here?
Mark
Mark, the magnetic part of the spindle and the three metal points on the clamp are not what hold the disc, it’s the little rubber loops that do that. They are designed to hold the disc just enough without exerting any more pressure than that which is required to hold the disc in place, as this gives the best performance.
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OK, I see - thanks. So what’s the job of the magnets then - to align the clamp correctly with the spindle?
The magnet attaches the clamp to the spindle.
Hi everyone,
I also have a CD 3.5 with flatcap (late 1990s) and also use the tape x (solution). One can use masking type tape, but I’ve found Scotch Magic-Tape to work just as well. I have thousands of CDs and have used this technique on around a hundred. It works every time.
The tape solution that Radish uses also sounds promising. I’ll have to give it a try.
Best regards from a forum newbie
McHenryDave
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Yes, I’m sure other tapes work well too. The only reason I use masking tape is it’s what the dealer who gave me the tip said to use. Given that some other tapes are either a) smoother and/or b) leave a residue when removed, masking seemed a wholly sensible choice to me.
Magic tape is the translucent one, right? I suppose that would be greatly preferable to maskers in the aesthetic stakes!
Mark
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