When my mech failed and it was sent back I was initially quoted a price for repair that involved a modification to accept a different mech. It was only by chance that my dealer found out there were a few VAM1250’s assigned to new builds and argued that it was only right mine got one of those mechs.
No, it’s a serial number from 2007 and when the 1250 mech failed in 2015 (neat anagram), the previous owner sent it to the German distributor, Music Line. Apparently they still had a new 1250 mech in stock and changed it. According to the previous owner it was barely used after this until I took it off him this summer, so it’s quite special
There will be a different sonic signature but as I’ve not heard one I can’t comment on how it sounds.
It may be subtle, it may even be better but I know I’m glad I got the VAM1250 fitted as a replacement.
The new and different mech requires other changes to be made too, so there will be some sound changes, I guess, at least for sensitive ears. I only know my player with the old one. As is to be expected, apparently some prefer the original, some the new one (though this usually means full service too, which will have is own benefit). The new one has the magnetic puck without rubber feet, so might be marginally less hassle in this regard. Personally, I am glad to have the CDS3 in the form that Naim originally intended but with a nearly new mech
I intended to hang on as long as possible to my CDS3 as I love the way it sounds. I had intended to send it for a service but it’s recently started skipping occasionally so I suspect it may well require a new mech - I hope I like the way it sounds when it comes back !
I had skipping once after I forgot the CD & rubber puck over night in the tray, but a bit of rubber massage solved it (and I fetched a spare from the dealer)
Edit: Oh we had this little discussion once already in comment #44
Hi Elfer,
A lot of scary nonsense has been written on various forums about how the VAM1202 mech is much worse than god’s own VAM1250.
My CDS3 started out with the older mech and was fine for about 6 years before it failed.
Naim replaced with the new, apparently inferior mech but also brought the CDS3 up to date with several other related changes. End result? It sounded better after the mech change and factory service than it ever had before.
So I really wouldn’t worry about Naim fitting the newer mech. It will sound better than ever.
That’s reassuring to know.
I’m a bit of a dinosaur and really have no interest in streaming.
I much prefer vinyl to CD, not just the sound but also the physical media and the tactile nature of the sleeve and notes.
Thanks BF, that’s reassuring. Not much choice at the end of the day, I’m grateful that Naim keep repairing these things for as long as they do as I have yet to find a streamer that sounds better, without spending more than I’m prepared to, for a product that will likely be out of date long before my next service is due
If the machine sounds better with a new mech it is because of components changed at the time. The newer (less good sounding/reliable mech) was used as the old one was no longer available and so modifications had to be made. Lets face it, if the newer cheaper mech was better they’d have used it in the 1st place. It’s the same with the CDX2, i once heard my Vam1250 model CDX2 right next to a 1202 model in the dealers and the difference was very obvious in favour of my Vam1250 machine, and the dealer was rather taken aback at the big difference. My 12 year old CDS3 is still on the original 1250 mech and sounds sublime. In fact its the most reliable and best sounding source i’ve owned and i once owned a CD555.
The spindle plate and the pucks are different. Edited: The 1250 has a puck 4 with three rubber bits and three metal pins on the underside. The new 1202 requires the puck 5 without the rubbers and pins. These two pucks are shown in older CD manual version.
Question to those in the know: The insertion depth of the three metal pins on the old puck 4 is not 100% fixed. I.e., it is possible to push the pins farther in, until they touch the puck’s cover on the other side. What’s the correct depth?
In the replacement puck I got, one of the pins was pushed in a bit more (maybe my own doing when I took it home in the wallet as I had not realized this was possible and I had to take care). The puck’s cover can be taken off and you can push the pin back out from the other side, but how far? I compared to the original puck and fixed it as best I could. It works, but:
Do the pins have to be absolutely level?
How would you do that?
And how to know what’s the correct depth?