So moving things around and noticed when reconnecting the 2960 a 0.5A to 0.25A rating, but I use a 13A plug fuse.
Question am I totally misreading this and is it an internal case fuse, which I don’t think it has ?
I read it as the switch max amp draw for the different voltages - i.e. 240V 0.25A
The 13A plug should (strictly speaking) have a 3amp fuse … your choice
3A eek always used a 13A.
I’m sure most anyone with a hint of audiophile blood in their veins all have 13 amp fuses in their 13A’s.
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Hi again @obsydian … Just to get your ‘eek’ volume up a little more …
A 13A BS1362 13 amp rated fuse is not designed to actually blow at 13 amps. The wire inside a fuse heats up when its carrying a current; the more current the hotter it gets. This is controlled under BS1362 which specifies a maximum heat dissipation of 1 (one) watt from the fuse when its is carrying the rated current. The actual fast rise current that a BS 1362 rated fuse will blow is approximately 1.66 times the rated value, so for a 13 amp fuse this will be 21.6 amps.
Another BS1362 specification is that whatever the current that causes the fuse to blow, 25amps or a dead short, the fuse itself must remain intact.
Thread drift over
My guess is that there are countless oversized (13 Amp) fuses out there where a 3 or 5 amp fuse would be correct. Anyone who adds an ‘upgrade’ power cord or replaces a broken plug is likely to be doing this inadvertently.
For example there was a thread about upgrading the power cord on a Muso a while back. I vaguely remember a couple of people putting Fig 8 plugs on a Powerline Lite or a third party lead, and I bet you none of them thought to check that they ended up using the correct fuse.
Remember also that the lead you are using would need to be rated at 13 amps, if you use a 13amp fuse, so double check that. E.g. an 0.75mm2 flex is only rated at 6amps
Now now Gagetman, that’s scaring the horses a bit ?
Not forgetting the IEC320 plug, no matter if bargain basement or fancy megabuck boutique, and even when connected via 4mm 32 amp Powerline, is still only rated at 10 amps
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Bear in mind most 2960 users on here are used secondhand units which may not have the original lead.
Mine was new but I disposed of the IEC and used an old Naim standard IEC pre Powerline Lite and all that.
Yes as Mike says should be 3 amp fuse or less (1 or 2 amp fuse) … certainly not 13 amp.
To be honest this goes for most domestic electronic equipment as well.
In our house hold, there are very few appliances we have that use 13 amp fuses, most are 3 amp or 5 amp.
We don’t use any 1, 2, 7 or 10 amp fuses as far as I am aware… which are all appropriate BS 1362 fuses to use… perhaps I should….
Perhaps get one of these tubs from your local hardware store or online…
Also worth noting that according to Part P, the fuse in the 13A plug is rated to protect the attached cable NOT the unit being powered by that cable (the unit is responsible for it’s own electrical protection).
Hence why Naim components have a fuse (and a spare) in the housing of the IEC plug on the back!
Of course that only specifies the MAXIMUM rating of the fuse to be used, using a lower rated fuse is perfectly acceptable provided it conforms to BS1362.
You beat me to it. The fuse is there to protect the cable. Anything else that requires protection will have its own device.
Useful chart. The flex size is usually marked along it.
I’m away from home right now so can’t check or find out on the Naim website. What fuse do Naim put in their power line cables?
Someone said to me recently I should use 13a fuses. Just curious what product manufacturers do vs this advice.
Ta
It’s a standard 13 Amp fuse.
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