Good news Don. What’s the latest on the duvet jacket?!
C.
Ellis Brigham don’t have the style in store and only S or XL on line.
Arc teryx have style in stock but not XL. L was too small, XXL was too large.
Will order From Ellis Brigham on line.
I visited both stores so feel comfortable ordering what I hope will be the correct size on line from one of them.
1 Like
I seem to recall the ability to shoot a correction frame (shoot a true-white, evenly lit surface close enough to be out of focus, IIRC) then use that file in Photoshop as an input to setting up an adjustment pre-set that automatically fixes the issue in any photos affected. I might have that wrong. It’s a work-around for shots taken before cleaning (say, on a trip where you can’t get it clean, but still need to use your camera). I think it can also be used for dead pixel correction.
Arctyrex do great jackets and I use their Gortex shells. For the down-filled jacket, I’ve gone for Patagonia. It’s a work of art.
Hi winky,
I can grasp the concept behind your suggested process. I had the sensor cleaned today and I think your process requires the “blank” photo to be taken with the blemish. I didn’t do this before the cleaning.
I will try various techniques to see if I can remove or disguise the smudge in those photos in which it’s a bit intrusive.
Yes, i’ve looked at both Patagonia and arc’tyrex. Not much in it between these two in my opinion, they both produce quality products, but at the moment it’s the arc’tyrex cerium SV hoody that I feel will suit my requirements for the cold but relatively dry Canadian winters. If I can find the right size !
Yes, once the cleaning is done it isn’t required. It’s a stop gap measure. If you’re in a position that you need/want to keep shooting with a blemish, you can. Then shoot the correcting frame when you get a chance, and then you can quickly (automatically) remove the blemish from those shots.
There is a way to create the correcting image from an affected image even if you’ve had the sensor cleaned. If you can find an image where the dust streak/blur is very obvious (in a light sky, usually), create a copy layer, and repair the blemish (use cloning or spot repair), then invert that repaired layer (make a negative) and flatten the two layers (add them together). The resulting image (essentially just the blemish) may be good enough for Photoshop to work with for auto correction. You will have to invert it first as I think the correcting image needs to be mostly white (255,255,255), not black (0,0,0).
Thanks winky,
I’ll give it a try. Fortunately it’s only photos with a uniform coloured sky that are worst affected. Not too many of them.
Cheers
Only up to a point - if the blemish is miscoloured or over/underexposed etc, then it could be near perfect, but It clearly can’t add missing information if due to a spot of dust etc, and I’m not sure if that particular process can force it to clone/smudge from the surrounding image in a way you can manually (as you described in your last post)?
Yeah only up to a point. Correct. But dust blemishes are most obvious in areas where the image contains little detail. These can be reasonably cloned/patched automatically. Where the blemish is in an area of detail, as you say, missing information cannot be retrieved, but the blemish is less obvious anyway.
Although the photo in my initial post clearly shows the smudge, I hadn’t noticed it on any of my photos for two years.
Even now, it is only obvious in those pictures with a uniform colour, usually a clear sky, in the top left corner. Anything with detail or variation, including non-uniform cloud, camouflages the smudge.
I will try to “repair” the more obvious blemishes. Not sure how yet.
Yes Arctyrex are amazingly stupid when it comes to availability of sizes. I like the Captive polo s/s tops and the simple process of finding the size is not easy. As you’ll know, the Cerium SV is one of the best on the market, but if you can stretch to the Patagonia Grade vii Parka, I would definitely take a look. It’s without a doubt the finest down jacket ever made. It wears different.
This topic was automatically closed 60 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.
I was just doing my sensor cleaning and thought I’d add my method, which I’ve successfully used, to this thread. Through experience, it’s the only way I think the sensor should be regularly maintained.
I use the Visible Dust Arctic Butterfly 724s and if handled carefully, nothing else is needed. The key to cleaning the sensor successfully, is to use the 724s for the sensor only, don’t ever touch the fibres and whilst cleaning the sensor, don’t let the fibres touch anything other than the glass surface. The lubricants used in cameras can often splash around inside the chamber walls and if you touch this with the fibres, it can smear the sensor and be a pain to clean off.
That looks like a handy bit of kit, if used with a steady hand and a bit of camera-care knowledge. I’m not sure that I would feel confident working on a sensor to remove dust.
I wasn’t sure whether the smudge on my sensor was dust or a smear. Would the 724s device clean an oily smudge ? or is it purely for dust removal ?
Just purely dust removal Don. It’s really not difficult. I imagine reading about it, builds it up to something trickier than it is. Flick the switch, it spins for 10 secs and generates its own static. Brush it along the sensor and job done. Picks up dust and doesn’t add any.
Any sort of blower or dirty brush will only be a losing battle.
You make it sound so easy.
I guess the spinning is purely to generate static, after which the brush stops and you then drag the bristles back and forth across the sensor to pick up the dust ?
Presumably the collected dust can be removed from the bristles quite easily.
Seems to be worth a try next time. Thank you.
I’m sticking with sensor pads and alcohol for my 5D3. Since doing landscape photography more and more, I’ve noticed tiny oil dots on the sensor that only the pads will clear. I’m ok at f/11, but by f/16 they’re too noticeable to leave.