Hi all
I’ve my naim pre,psu, amp and dac located in a general A/V rack which is provided by any decoupling facilities. My speaker are bookshelf located on the top of the rack. I appreciate a suggestion in what isolation feet and base works well and what are the most sensitive component in the chain.
Thanks a lot
Isoacoustics OREA?
Hard to say without seeing your current layout, but top priority has to be getting the speakers off the rack. If you can’t put them on stands, maybe wall mount them, or whatever it takes.
Thanks @ChrisSU, I ould exclude speckers from my question because I can’t use their stand but I’ll move them over townshed trampolin.
My question is mainly in how to isolate pre psu amp and dac because they are in the same rack (samo of the speacker as well)
I have a decent, albeit basic, rack (Atacama), and I’ve put isolation platforms under each of the components. Mine are Audiophile Base 001 and 002, but I’m sure others can be recommended.
I haven’t tried the Orea, but I have Isoacoustics Gaia under the speakers, they are well-made and seem to work as promised.
I have a single non fraim cab that onlu just holds my pre, psu and power amp.
I have the pre isolated on a glass plate, on top of rubber tap washers that sit on the shelf. I was suprprised that it actually did make a difference.
Bottom shelf is the heaviest, my 250-2.
Next shelf is the supercap.
Next shelf is the suspended 252.
On top is the turntable on a marble plinth, again on rubber tap washers.
What are the electronics most sensitive to vibration? Pre? Dac? Or what
I’m a bit concerned that the thread seems to be about decoupling people… 
I use Stillpoints Ultra Mini under my kit as Fraim was vetoed. They’re not cheap but I found them to be very effective. They work best under the power amps and power supplies, for me anyway.
Made my own ”rack” from IKEA VITTSJO but substituted all the shelves for custom ordered toughened smoked glass. Then i put the glass on sourced hard sorbothane (I guess it is) apparatus feet that was accomodated directly on to existing holders on the metallic frame of VITTSJO for decoupling (could actually tried metal balls too since theres a screwhole in the holders)
Cheap as anything. Imho a Huge increase in SQ, much airier, faster and clearer sound then my old piece or any I’ve used with fixed shelving
Looks really good, thanks for the detail on your changes to it.
There’s another thread on here that details the strategy for decoupling noise.
I too use a 10 toughened glass to support my gear on. Trying to isolate it from a wooden structure below.
Currently between the two I have a rubber tap washer and a hardened chromed steel ball of 12mm dia.
The washer was to absorb noise and to support and locate the ball. The ball was thinking of vide minimal contact with the glass.
But, this may not be the best strategy.
The other thread suggests reflecting the noise back down. So, it uses a copper or brass support and a ceramic ball. The difference being the brass is being used to locate and reflect noise. So, going to try that.
For sure, taking a look to fraim we could understand that it combines 2 strategy:
1 coupling strategy between every structure component and the floor
2 decouplong strategy with balls for every glass component
Ceramic balls arrived today. Just waiting for the copper) brass bits.
Where did you buy it?
A well known in line auction site. 12mm ceramic balls.
Have a search for " shelf isolation" using the search tool. Loads of good stuff to think about.
How do they sound compared to previously?
I’d expect them to sound better - other things being equal - as the sphere is harder than steel and because it only touches the surface below at one point in the work hardened brass.
[12mm, you went big.
Xanthe suggested in that isolation thread that smaller spheres are probably better as they make a much smaller contact area with the glass and brass.]
Any chance of a pic of your dent!?
Did you just whack a hardened sphere of steel into them with a mallet?
Currently under my turntable. Got a second set for my streamer to prepare later.
I centre punched the brass thing. Bit difficult as these are turned and still have the centre “pip”, so the punch was slightly offset. Not that it matters.
I then used a counter sink to create the V to locate the ball.
I used a steel ball in the countersunk hole and hit it with a steel hammer,
A quick cleaner with some brasso and installed.
Soundwise under the TT. I’d say it has lost a little bit of bass? But it has brought with it additional clarity and focus in the other bits. Certainly not going to take them off!
I’ll get a picture of the counter suck bit post whack when I have made up set 2.
The 12mm was because the steel ones were 12mm. Nothing else. Bugger, 6mm are quite a lot cheaper!
Sounds like a successful experiment.
Good to hear they are keepers.
Jim
