My RA ac is a supersocket and is defo a MK rebadged one as it’s imprinted with the mk logo and so yours is the new supersocket 11 which they must have switched supplier for. Mine also has a grounding pin which is why i originally bought it to ground my olsen power-strip. I really rate the M link ac wall double combined with the matching clear plug esp when both used together which is how they are meant to be used for best performance. Anyway i think the signature range is just too overpriced for a rhodium plating and if i were to spemd so much on a double ac outlet then i would buy the latest NCF furutechs as they are currently the best available. I really rate the NCF material and am gonna purchase an slimline iec and a c7 double outlet based on this material. Anyways when buying the expemsive stuff please make sure you can return your product if you’re not happy with the improvments they may bring.
I don’t think I will be spending into the £100s for electrical sockets but £30-£40 a socket is probably my limit in terms of “preparedness to experiment” and expendability. I am sure I will be installing the Missing Link sockets to replace the switched ones. That will leave me with options and will probably end up pluging the Naim’s into the best sounding pair and using each double socket for a single component each to take advantage of all 4 10mm spurs…
Anyone tried Doepke RCCB, or Gigawatt breaker ?
No expectation bias there then 
…on the basis that any switchless socket is better than any switched socket 
Just thought I would post my initial thoughts on this as over the last week I have had a local electrician install a dedicated mains.
As many on here, I also used the schematic available. I didn’t realise at the time (a week ago) but initially he installed B16 switches for each plug circuit and today, came back to install the C32 on the original diagram. Inside that time, I didn’t even bother setting anything back up incase they all tripped haha.
Ive waited until today to get it all set back up again, what a pain dressing the cables and keeping them all separated is!
In summary I have 3 un-switched MK double sockets, a nice shiny new consumer unit in my garage with the C32s which comes straight off the earth at the meter with the good old 10mm cable to each set of sockets.
Turned it on this evening and quite quickly I could tell at low volume that the bass extension was frankly largely enhanced. Initially I actually think it was too much but as the evening has gone on it seems to have settled down in a fairly short time. Not to mention the system had been sat unplugged for a week and was still warming up I guess.
After probably 90-120 mins of listening at fairly decent volume the bass has definitely improved further, the initial perhaps over powered appearance it was suggesting to me has calmed somewhat and continues to. But the punch has been quite a surprise. We all know the tracks that slam on those notes, I’m really pleased to say the improvement is somewhat, profound.
Also, the way the treble rolls off now on a certain (few) familiar tracks which I could have previously called out as maybe a little harsh or bright, are now focussed properly and a pleasure.
So as I write this and “the wheels touch ground” with the Foo Fighters on hi-res, volume up, I can say initially and for certain, if your out there thinking about it, putting off the hassle of arranging it, booking it, being in on the day and just committing to it in general, your not going to regret it.
A recommendation for sure!
So the Nova is back and the new sockets installed (2 x Andrew Supersockets II and 2 x Missing Link Silver Plated). It all needs to warm up and settle in from the repairs, but from the off SQ is noticeably improved over the switched sockets they replaced…
Seems the Naims prefer the Russ Andrews over the Missing Link sockets so far. Just edging it…
I think the RA sockets are gold plated as mine were and the m link ones are silver. For this reason i always try to match the m link outlet with silver plug pins, hence why i use the mshd silver plugs to this one. I think the naim pc are brass so there’s a slight mismatch to silver there. Anyways sometimes i forget about these simple things when buying esp when first starting out buying and making p cords, speaker cable, spades etc, etc. As you progress in sq you realise these things (connectors, basically) really do matter!
This addresses my current question: should more than one piece of audio equipment be plugged into the dedicated main? I’m having my electrician back and he could run a second just for another unit (active sub or a SN3 to power my Nova.) I also think it best to not plug the modem, router or TV into that same dedicated circuit. Agree?
I would certainly keep thise non-HiFi cheapo power supplies away from your system. Try to keep them some distance away as well as putting them on an existing ring main socket rather than the dedicated mains.
Do you think, for instance, an active sub and the Nova can share a circuit? Another member mentioned he split the circuit into two outlets I believe.
Both opinions exist (of course 
)
Your opinion I would love to have. Would I want to run separate lines for each component? (ie Nova and Focal Sub 600P? Also…are these worth the price? GTX-S NCF(R) | FURUTECH
I would use a single dedicated circuit for all the HiFi stuff. That keeps it well away from the other household stuff that might be polluting your HiFi. You can put multiple sockets on the dedicated supply, but I would probably just put a decent quality mains block on a single unswitched socket and run it all from there.
The Nova is presently plugged into the dedicated main I’ve done already, with just a standard outlet. It does sound great, no noise. I just want to give it the best possible environment and I’m going to add a sub in all likelihood.
Run the other line in if it’s not going to cost you much extra when your electrician returns. You’ve then got a couple of options to try when you get your Sub. Run both from one line via a double outlet or mains block or give each component a dedicated line and see what sounds best to you.
I don’t know really. However, in a separates system Naim is going to great lengths in order to ensure a common, well-defined signal ground, so I guess an argument can be made to keep everything hifi in one circuit. There are certainly members who prefer it this way. The one powerblock that comes somewhat close to being a Naim-approved development, the MusicLine PowerIgel, also uses a star configuration.
Also…are these worth the price? GTX-S NCF(R) | FURUTECH
I have absolutely no idea, unfortunately
As mentioned in my previous post, when I discussed this with Steve Hopkins of Naim he mentioned that they had tried a number of different options and concluded that a single 10mm T&E feed worked better than multiple wires.
Steve also mentioned that splitting the meter tails and using a separate consumer unit for the dedicated supply was the way to go, and having tried with and without, my experience was that this is pretty much essential.
Well, I’m going to finally bite the bullet and somehow find a way to get a cable from my Mains supply to the other side of the house. After pondering the idea for a while now, I have a few ideas on cable placement, and will be calling in an Electrician to confirm or firm up my ideas.
So, below is what I will be asking for. I think I have everything covered, but I hope you don’t mind me asking you all in case there is anything else I should add.
- 10MM SWA Armoured Cable T+E (Stranded)
- Going to a double socket flush mounted (MK Logic Plus, Un-switched) - A deep wall box may help here
- Separate Hager or MK Metal Consumer Unit with Type C 32Amp RCBO
- Earth is extremely important, so must go back to incoming earth block.
- Also take extra earth lead from SWA banjo connector in CU to Earth block in CU.
- New CU to be fed from a Henley Block off the main house input
- Minor Works test and completion certificate
The one question I haven’t been able to ascertain yet is do you terminate the steel outer layer of the Cable at the socket end? I ask the question because when you shield, I believe you only earth/connect one side?