I decided on this……my run from the meter was about a meter, electrician used 10mm……so i thought what the hell, saves getting an upgrade bug later. It easily takes large diameter cables.
The Mk faceplate recommended by others will also accept the 10mm2.
Albeit, it’s a struggle to work with any 10mm2 solid copper conduit and correctly install it into anything. If you’ve worked with it, you’ll understand that idea.
Note : Most electricians are shy of this. They only really deal with it for cookers. To ask them to deal with several cables (at once) will make them think
It cost me less than £150……best bang for the buck ever. Everything was much more cohesive, timing better, more musical. Wonder why it took me so long as the cupboard with the meter is behind the living room wall where the Hifi, now resides.
Like HH, I was advised by Naim to use only one 10mm cable. The problem with this is that sockets are not designed to accept 10mm cable. It fits, but it’s a real struggle to get two 10mm cables into the same socket. On top of that, when you push the socket onto the back box to screw it in place it’s really quite tricky and you have to be careful not to damage anything with the considerable force required to bend all those stiff cables into place. I’m not saying it’s impossible, but an electrician might well refuse to do it. A single socket and a decent mains block or Hydra is, in this respect, a much neater solution.
Regarding MK sockets, I’ve found the more recent Malaysia made ones to be of poor quality compared to the older versions. Personally I would now avoid them.
Yes, it’s a shame because the old ones were solidly built. The last few times I’ve bought some I’ve had to return at least 50% of them with manufacturing defects.
In terms of transformer hum, a dedicated mains made no difference for my humming (recently serviced) XPS 2. Hopefully it will fix yours but be prepared for disappointment.
In terms of difference of having a dedicated mains there is a consistency in the quality of the music that is played. I no longer have the highs and lows in my system that I experienced prior to a dedicated mains.
That’s a misconception, the problem typically isn’t the rhodium. Just made several long winded posts on this very subject in the “Furutech Discussion” thread, so worth checking out if you’re curious.
I know nothing about this outlet but from recent experiences I would stay away from anything that uses phosphor bronze as a base metal. It imparts a harshness that you won’t get with a pure copper base metal. Also, Rhodium is more critical/revealing of the base metal its over, so I’d always be even more so inclined to stay away from phosphor bronze if its rhodium plated. If it meets code for your location & you can stretch the budget I’d highly recommend looking at the Furutech Rhodium NCF outlet.