Dedicated Mains

An external cable is certainly an option. The cable will be thicker and stiffer but possibly easier and less disruptive than running regular T&E internally.

You should really be giving the dedicated mains circuit its own consumer unit, not taking a feed from the existing one. That would mean splitting the feed from the meter to connect to the second CU, which could possibly be located next to the existing one.

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They could probably feed the cable through the wall cavity from the meter box to the consumer unit (fuse box)

If it’s external that will have issues with integrity and protection.

Speak to a NICEIC approved electrician and they should be able to advise the best and safest option.

DG…

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As @ChrisSU mentioned you’d probably split the mains before it enters the existing CU into a separate CU for the HiFi which would be next to existing CU then through the wall and up the outside to the room above.

It would save channeling walls and lifting carpets and floors.

If the new CU is right under the ceiling it may be a simple job to run a cable from it internally, through the ceiling void and up a short wall chase to a socket. That would avoid the need to drill holes in the external wall and run stiffer, more expensive SWA cable. Either way it’s basic stuff for a competent electrician.

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My Furutech UK single socket is supplied by a 10mm Lapp cable.

The electrician did not complain about the installation, and I was there while he did it.

Thanks DG - seeing it helps to understand what it is.

I’m not sure if I’m guessing this correctly but on the photo below seems that the wall socket might have been avoided all together with the wires going straight to the G3 block. I believe it was posted by @PeterR so it would be great if he can confirm if that was the case and what was the outcome.

I’ve got a recollection that doing so is not allowed, or possibly frowned upon. But the electrician will know

@Yorkshireman If you do run a thick cable outside, then drilling the wall at an angle, will lessen the sharp 90degree bend it would otherwise need. The electrician will need a longer drill bit, but that shouldn’t be a problem.

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That’s a blatant contravention of UK electrical regs and would not be signed off by any competent electrician.

I had a feeling it would fit, but would two cables fit i to a single connection? It will in an MK socket, but it’s a very tight fit and certainly not what the manufacturer had intended.

I had my dedicated mains installed last year when I stripped the lounge and hallway etc for redecoration etc.

I used the same electrician that did a new bath room and shower installation some ten years ago and was slightly apprehensive bearing in mind the problems some people have had with electricians.

The sparky came over viewed what I needed (did show him a diagram from the forum) he looked measured up for the cable etc and said not a problem.

He turned up on the required date lifted the floor boards as required installed a 10mm for the Naim kit into a non switched double mk socket and a 6mm for the TV to a switched double MK socket he even managed to fit the cables up behind the skirting board and channeled out the plaster to hide the cables.

The Naim kit is connected using a Music Works G3 block the power amp uses the other non switched outlet.

I was rather surprised at the difference it made to the system well worth the money and effort.

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@anon77199223 can you recall where you sourced the 10mm LAPP cable and how much roughly /m? I need ~ 20m from the new dedicated CU to the likely system location in the refurb I’m working on at home. So while I’m keen to do what I can I’m not going to go overboard in the context of my current system. (overboard being an arbitrary £30/m…)

I bought it direct from Lapp UK.

But normally they don’t sell direct to members of the public.

You could look at the Lapp website and choose the cable you want, then find a retailer that sells it in the length you need.

Or just start with retailers.

Hifi Collective has some good cables, but not many 10mm in-wall cables iirc.

100% agree with you on this. @Stu299 I was extremely skeptical tbh but pretty much everything Daren has said is what I experienced.

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This is something new to me. Did you try Plixir BAC units? I assume this Ecoflow battery solution is superior to all fancy power blocks? Interesting.

The battery solution holds advantages over many other conditioners I have owned, including Plixir. However, Ecoflow is not an audiophile product, and it’s built with a noisy fan. I have to limit the number of devices to avoid reaching the power consumption level that triggers the fan. As long as the fan doesn’t turn on, it performs the best. The huge battery is as powerful as the wall power point with no dynamic constraints, and it also provides the most quiet off-the-grid sound. Actually, the true high-end battery solution for hi-fi is Stromtank.

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What Hifi system do you have?

Which devices within it are powered by the eco-flow?

What ecoflow device do you have?

How do you connect the hi-fi components to the eco-flow?

Thanks for clarifying that, much appreciated.

DG…

I am using two units of EcoFlow DELTA Pro, placed at the far left and right corners of the picture. I use each unit to power my Vitus monoblock. Other equipment is disconnected from the batteries as I am doing dac and clock comparison at this moment.

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Per above - balanced power supply is the solution to Naim amp transformer hum. IME a dedicated mains won’t make any difference to transformer hum. I also installed an Airlink Transformer - 100% cure. Mine went in the fuse cupboard between the CU and sockets as I recall - it was a few years ago and I eventually sold it on after changing amps to one that didn’t hum.

If you install a separate consumer unit, it’s also worth looking at Gigawatt Circuit Breakers and a Doepke RCCB for further uplifts in clarity, dynamics and bass quality.

I have 3 x 10mm lines from a dedicated CU to 3 double wall sockets. Next to them is a double socket on the house ring for lamps but it also served as a fast way to compare the performance of the amps on the house ring to same on the dedicated line - truly night and day. This configuration came about gradually. If I’d done it in one go it would have taken 1 day for a labour charge of £200. It’s the proverbial no-brainer.

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