So after taking my time, I’ve finally built my first extension block based on all @Skeptikal 's great advice. This one actually uses switched sockets (I know!) as it’s intended for use with my PC and monitor etc. at my work desk. I wanted to build a test one first before attempting the one for my system which is the last picture.
As you can see, I’ve chosen to mount on peg boards which are especially useful for mounting on other surfaces. The PC one is going on the back of my desk out of sight (it’s currently just sitting on the floor at the moment in the picture). I will put another peg board next to it behind the desk where all the excess cabling will be neatly attached
Update to follow when I’ve finished the one for my system and plugged it in. I’ve trialed this one with my KEF LSXII in the kitchen and I have to say the sound is very good
That looks like a very well thought out and finished product with great attention to detail.
I hope my ideas have helped and now you can enjoy in safety with peace of mind it all meets regs.
Good Job.
Thanks, all your advice really helped. Whilst some are sceptical, excuse the pun, of the 1.5mm cable, I found it’s actually very strong stuff once you’ve stripped it and with the ferrels, it gives a great and really solid connection
One point, perhaps minor or perhaps not. If the pegboards are made from steel they may have a negative influence on the sound due to both the ferrous content and possible resonances. I would personally rather see the sockets mounted on a wooden or even acrylic base.
Not trying to pee on your party here. Nice job anyway.
These ones are made of plastic. I was going to mount on wood; but after lots of research I was hesitant to use something that wasn’t fire retardant and these are very handy for mounting and getting things straight
Unswitched version now complete and integrated into my system. I must admit it sounds very good and it is at least comparable to the G3 Lite and Furutech DSP 4.1 cable with very expensive connectors on it.
I did try swapping out the #77 cables for my power line lites; but that the 77s really do make a difference. I’m going to listen to the system like this for a week and then swap the G3 and Furutech cable back in to compare
For anyone interested, I’ve got an MCRU #77 cable feeding my amp directly from the mains socket, another one feeding my 252/SCDR from the DIY block and a Furutech DSP 4.1 with their fancy rhodium connectors feeding my NDX2. I got the 77s at a fraction of their RRP on eBay and made the other cable by buying the parts. They do make a difference; but the cost vs benefit ratio is definitely questionable. If I could do it all again, I would invest the money in a PS for the NDX2 which I’m currently saving for.
You probably don’t want to read this after spending on those items, but BS1363 states the cable should be side, not top, entry to the plug - this is to stop the plug being pulled out by the cable, which could be dangerous.
That is ok and thanks for the advice. One of the reasons I made the block on the peg board was for flexibility, so I will look into attaching it to the wall so the plugs enter horizontally
He is saying that the cable should be at right angles to the socket, so moving the whole thing doesn’t change that. Maybe worth asking the manufacturer or retailer what UK regulations they conform to.
On the subject of regulations, sockets should be attached to flame retardant surfaces, so perhaps worth checking what that plastic pegboard is made from.
Re the question of the cable being at a right angle, how are Furutech therefore allowed to sell these plugs, which are specifically designed for the UK market?
On a separate note, I just added the SR purple fuse I have to my DIY block and I am not even going to bother comparing it to the G3 Lite, it sounds great. The G3 Lite is going on the bay! The whole thing has been very enjoyable to research and build; but even better for having such a positive outcome. Thank you once again @Skeptikal
@What_Are_You_To_Me
Hi
You’ve done a great deal of work and got great attention to detail.
The comments about the plugs are a bit unusual personally I wouldn’t have them coming straight out from the wall as the leverage would always be trying to pull the plug out of the socket.
I would use them vertical like you and where it has to be in the wall. @Mike-B
Has the best reply here and it takes the strain out of the coupling.
So the right angle and vertical would be my choice.
I’ve looked at the right angle plug a few times and thought about them but the only thing I’m not sure about is how robust the cover fitting and screw tightening goes I’ve seen a couple of posts snapped off.
But maybe spare covers are available.
Don’t doubt yourself so much you’ve got the idea.
They are built like the preverbial brick khazi.
The cover screws are likewise, anyone tightening them enough to snap something must have grossly over tightened.
@Mike-B
Thanks for the reassurance I wondered if it was an Achilles heel or not.
Or spares might be available.
I’ll have to find lots of pictures now.
Thanks.
I think the Furutech screws rumour you clicked on was a guy who said he had problems because he changed fuses a lot and he had to remove the earth wire.
Now why the need to change fuses and why the need to move the earth wire.
Curiosity beat the cat … I’ve just pulled my plug and checked the screws.
Once clicked to untighten, the screws spin out easily. Retightening just requires ‘nipping up’ it all holds together very nicely with very little need to over tighten.
