Just back from 13 days riding in Europe. Italian Alps near Saluzzo, Ventoux and then Corsica. 1,800km and 36,000m totals for the trip.
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That’s a good idea, i already have a metal dust-cap type one lurking about somewhere.
No hurry fo me to get a proper valve core remover, but will come in handy for those tubeless fluid top ups.
Re: The big tongue wrench… Unless one is a hairy gorilla it’s possible to guesstimate the cassette and rotor lock-rings which both state 40 Nm. The mechanic in the wheel build shop recently clicked my cassette lock-ring up to 40 Nm, and because the wheels need to go back by courier i’ve removed the recently fitted cassette, and can confirm it was done up well tight. I’ll probably click them in at 35 Nm for peace of mind.
I find the rotor lock-rings are really simply easy to get on and off, but there is contradictory advise about applying a little grease to the splined rotor-hub interface which would seem a wise enough thing to do in the cold damp British Isles, however Park Tool advises not too grease this area and to leave bone dry; seemingly their worry is contamination on the rotor-pad interface (?) which is some distance away.
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Can’t wait to get my new wheels operational, they look fabulous!
Shame they need to go back for a quick fix.
Anyone guessed what’s wrong yet? 
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I have rotors which have six bolts and requires 4Nm only. Cassette needs 40Nm as you say, but I guess I’m in the hairy gorilla category. I just do it up FT as they say. When I did have centre lock rotors, I used to put a little grease on the splines to make removal easier. Never contaminated the pads.
As to your wheels, from the angle of the picture, they look as though they have been laced incorrectly.
That maybe so but a symptom of a cause that is far dafter, the tyre markings hold the answer:
Below is what they should have fitted:
Remarkably, i survived a 20 mile ride on Friday afternoon without realising these “tubeless tyres” are not specified for tubeless use!
It accounts for the loss of pressure, the handling vagueness and the strange road roar noise.
Anyway, i’ve accepted their apology.
Apparently he did order GP5000TL but received GP5000, and then didn’t notice the mistake, nor did the mechanic who fettled the brake callipers, and nor i when i collected them on Thursday
Anyway, they are keen to make amends ASAP 
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winky, you must be fit, that works out at an average of 138 km [ or 86 miles ] per day!
The Specialized S-Works looks cool in that metallic blue : )
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Ah, yes that would account for the problems. Glad they are happy to make amends and it’s all amicable. Mistakes get made.
How does the BB tool work on rotor lockrings? The cassette tools work on my rotor lockrings.
I’ve never felt the need for the tools with the central pins. I get that they’re more secure, but it doesn’t seem to matter provided one ensures they are fully engaged before applying force. The lockrings are essentially disposable anyway, so if I wreck/damage one I’ve always got another one floating around somewhere, assuming I haven’t basically permanently affixed my cassette or disc rotor to the wheel in the meantime!
On the road, I prefer to have my sealant pre-cured in the from of a lightweight flexible toroid. This sealant toroid is readily replaced in the event of a puncture, as spare pre-cured sealant toroids are easily carried without fear of spillage or of them drying out.
One advantage of using pre-cured sealant toroids is that a sidewall cut doesn’t spray me, my bike and my friends with white splooge. Another is that I have a very wide choice of tyres available, and have no issues getting them to “seat”, regardless of rims.
My pre-cured sealant toroids also don’t dry up, nor require “topping up”.
Road tubeless. Solving problems I simply don’t have.
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The cassette tool works fine on my front brake, but the rear is different, the lock-ring having 44mm diameter with 16 external notches.
Had me very puzzled at first, an expensive tool to buy just for that job, but nice to have the ability to remove when need be.
There are other tools out there that will fit the 44mm/16 notch that cost less than the Park Tool BBT-69.2, but i don’t know how good they are or if they really do fit, and many different sizes and variations of then same sort of tool.
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I don’t grease this area. They could, in theory, bond/get stuck with a little corrosion, I guess, but I’ve never had an issue. A tiny bit of grease on the lockring threads. (I do grease cassette splines, though)
What sort of hub is it? I’ve never seen that.
And you’re right about the BB tool world being an incompatibility hellscape.
The rear hub type is a C-Lock - 142mm x 12mm Thru axle
( The usual alternative from Centre Lock is 6 bolt )
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Taken a few weeks ago. Part of our family bike outing. Son-in-law, daughter and granddaughter. grandmas (both of them) and other granddaughters are waayyy ahead of us !
It’s not so much the bikes that interest us, it the beautiful scenery.
Kal Lake is the first on our way from Vernon to Kelowna. The route used to be a single line railway when we first came to Canada about 20 years ago. But it fell out of use about five years ago and has now been cleaned up to provide a 30 mile long footpath/cycle-way between the two towns and a few villages in between.
Being an old railway trackbed along the shoreline of three lakes, it’s pretty flat, with no steep grades. This makes it a nice ride for the youngsters who enjoy a day out with picnic stops en route, including flapjacks and cappuccinos (for the adults).
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Just had a look at wiki, it says that railway started up in 2000, but ended in 2013 when the company ‘entered receivership’.
But very nice and thoughtful of them to build the foundation for the future cycle-way! ; )
A road i often use was originally a Railway embankment thoughtfully constructed by the Victorians, they certainly know how to engineer things to last! …and again primary intended as a Railway [ The Shrewsbury & Montgomeryshire Light Railway ] started in the 1880s to carry passengers, and carry rock from a quarry, but this line was never financially viable, got adopted by the MOD in WW2 who continued using it until loosing interest in1960, and in that year the railway girder bridge over the River Severn was converted to tarmac road just so i could ride my bike over it, lovely 
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This picture (and the previous two) show part of the Kettle Valley Railway that has also been abandoned as a railway and turned into a footpath/cycleway.
The section we often cycle is around the Myra Canyon with its tressle bridges. Although the summit is over 4,000ft, the grades are typical railway grades, so easy enough for a three-generation family outing. The mountain scenery is spectacular.
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My trusty steed.
I have always made sure that I live within walking and cycling distance of work.
This bike is maximised for safety and to reduce the impact on my 55 year old joints of riding around 1500 miles a year in a lot of rain and mud.
But without buying a full sus frame - so I have a Thudbuster seat post instead, plus fat tyres, a big saddle and front sus.
And very easy to reach bars!
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