I need to replace the cartridge on my Ekos/LP12 and wondered if anyone has done this themselves and any tips/pitfalls you might have encountered. Unfortunately my nearest dealer is across the other side of the US and shipping the entire turntable there and back is a major expense and hassle. Thanks so much for your help.
There’s an LP12 set up guide on the Cymbiosis website but I don’t know if it includes cartridge fitting.
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I’ve never done it myself, but I do know that you can remove the Ekos pretty easily and ship it, if you still have the box.
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There is a very clear step by step set of instructions here. I’ve seen it done a few times and am happy it’s ok.
I cannot see any commercial links so I believe posting the link conforms to Forum rules. Apologies if not.
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There is a very good dealer, just north of nyc in Mt. Kisco
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Those instructions are for replacing a LINN cartridge in a linn arm.
Philip has a Dynavector cartridge, it’s quite easy to remove and replace without removing the arm. The tags are connected to the the cartridge not the arm.
Trust me. I’m an engineer.
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I think the need to remove the arm is to prevent strain on the bearings when you tighten the cartridge bolts.
At least that was the case with the Ittok,which had very delicate bearings.
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That’s precisely the reason, so I’m not sure it matters which cartridge is being fitted. Back in the day, Linn cartridge bolts were always done up incredibly tightly. Maybe it’s different with other cartridges though, but it’s a risk I wouldn’t take.
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So are the Linn engineers 
and the instructions have little to do with the cartridge being used (though certainly the high torque used with Linn metal-bodies cartridges wd be more of an issue).
Torquing the cartridge with the arm in place can create stress on the bearings. Sure, if you are just nipping it finger tight it might be fine, but then you’re also not getting the performance you should. DVs are often metal-bodied and can take a fair bit of tightening, which is more like the design expects.
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Sliding the counter weight will put more stress on the bearings than changing the cartridge. Call me cynic but I think it has more to do with engaging the dealership for profit than with their under engineered tonearms. @Fatcat is correct IMO.
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Back in the day, removing the arm was to:
Protect the arm’s bearings
…and…
To stop pulling the three point suspension out of alignment.
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I guess it depends on who installed the last cartridge. If it was installed by a “Linn Tight” subscriber, then you should remove the arm to replace it. If it was installed by someone a little more enlightened then you should be fine leaving the arm in. Tighten the new cartridge using some common sense and you’ll be fine.
Failing that there’s Elite Audio in Herndon, VA,
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I can see why some people would be nervous about undoing a cartridge nut and screw, particularly if they have been over tightened.
But, if a force is applied to the Allen key, the torque produced will be cancelled out by the torque produced by the force applied to the spanner. With no or little force applied to the bearing.
If I was undoing a tight cartridge screw/nut, I’d position the spanner and allen key along the axis of the armtube in such a way that squeezing them together would undo the screw/nut.
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I was suggesting that placing the tags onto the dynavector cartridge pins wouldn’t be a problem with the arm still on the deck, whereas placing the tags on the pins on arm might be difficult (which is what you would need to do if the linn cartridge shown was being fitted).
It’s possible to tighten the screws/nuts without damaging the bearings.
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Sending out big thanks for everyone who responded with advice. The link to the instructions is very helpful and I did not know that there was a Linn dealer in VA which is a possibility albeit remote. I’ll read through the instructions carefully and see how nervous I remain. Thanks so much everyone!
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Spanner?…mosy cartridges these days have threaded slots for the bolts, so no spanner is used.
Spanners are used to tighten nuts, not screws. 
The thread concerns removing linn cartridge from linn arm. In the instuctions provided in the link, removal involves using a spanner and an Allen key. My suggestion is relevant when removing a very tightly secured linn cartridge.
If you do as I have described, I believe no stress will be put on the bearing.
It would be good practice to use this method even if screws are not tight.
I don’t have that problem, the cartridge I used requires the nut to be finger tight. It is supplied with round knurled nuts.
I
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You can just grab the headshell securely so that it would prevent any torsion to reach the bearings, we are talking very low torque values here.