Hi Chris, yes 332 as well.
It depends a lot on what house, are we still here, or is ‘the move’ in process.
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I am surprised. You have since some years now an Ndx TP XPS / Nait 05 and now you want to go for 333/332/ATC active.
What have changed ?
I am curious, because I remember you are past 75 now. Is it worth buying such expensive gear when our ears are not enough accurate?
I don’t want to appear rude, it’s just that I have recently wondering about that question. I am near 58 years old and I know that my hearing will decrease progressively. So I ask myself if it’s worth finally upgrading still my system, because in some years I won’t be able to hear all the nuances and acoustic details as today.
I made a test today at a ears specialist. I have a little loss in one ear. Globally I am still in at a normal general hearing performance. But I am quite sure that in some years I will have to buy hearing aids.
So upgrading still, I am wondering.
Sorry to post it in that way, I would formulate it with more diplomacy in French.
hi xanthe
sorry to hear you are suffering from trauma
i had EMD eye movement desensitisation therepy and although it took time it seems to have worked (though only in person - for me it didn’t work over zoom)
best wishes
nigel
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FR, this is not the place.
Thread Drift.
It will depend on a house move, I now live in a large house, plus I’m also thinking box reduction and less IT expertise involved.
I need a long demo session before anything, I might go 222, I might do nothing.
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Thanks, yes our therapist does EMDR and we see her in person, but we need to stabilise the CPTSD first or it could go haywire.
Initially, we’ll stabilise the individual traumas (abandonment, boarding school trauma & local anaesthetics - we’ve already done the locked-in syndrome), then we’ll do EMDR as a final phase to process everything.
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That’s why we used P600 diodes, 400A surge for 1/2 a mains cycle.
Actually about 320A for 50Hz mains
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The Ifi DC blocker is probably fine for things that have near consistent but low current draw like a source or preamp, at a push a headphone amp. I have one somewhere in a drawer unused. I’d not use it for anything that had transient current swings even if they were far below the threshold of the IfI’s load handling.
But whether it is the right medicine for the problem or not is another question entirely. It’s a specific solution for a specific problem. Most threads on the forum seem to confuse symptoms with the cause.
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The problem is that most are incapable to determine the cause, even qualified dealers.
So it’s easier to try some products, and return if it doesn’t work, than buying and trying some testers, and learning how to use them.
If you have the knowledge and the ability to do that, it’s so much easier.
In my case I tried a groundhog cable , ferrites, and a dc blocker. The dc blocker helped a bit. I am not annoyed really anymore ( mechanical pop poos and stridency in one speaker).
I took me little time and I could return easily the different components.
I agree. And some of the equipment to test is expensive and some, if used incorrectly, potentially dangerous. But most of the equipment for measuring RF, offset, over/ under voltage, low frequency noise, earth noise etc. has a multitude of other uses not applicable. There’s probably money to be made from a really comprehensive plug n play idiot-proof mains quality tester. It might make a good kickstarter project.
I have seen some devices advertised as such but they all miss certain measurements.
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Me too.
I found it messed up the bass and the timing when I tried it. Really must get round to selling it.
Like anything in Hi-Fi, somethings work for some, but not for others.
When I sold mine, after changing my system, I found that they sold well on eBay.
DG…
From what I can see there in your pictures, It seems that you bought the same one that I did.
From what others are saying, you would be better off with the DC+
I will first try to remove it and see if it impacts the sound. Should try this weekend.
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