Hello,
Alas my NAP200 non-DR has gone faulty!
Am thinking to change it to a NAP250DR. But unsure if this will still work with my NAC202-non-DR powered by HiCAP2DR? The only difference I can see is the 4pin to 3pin SNAIC instead of 4pin to 4pin between HiCAP & power amp?
I would of course like to of replaced the 202 with a 282DR first, but as 200 faulty, kind of forces my hand.
Alex
That’ll work. The 250 doesn’t provide a preamp power supply rail unlike the 200, but as you have a Hicap this is not an issue.
FWIW there is no 202DR as such. It’s power supply it uses in a 200 or a Hicap that is either DR or not.
Given your situation, now may be the right time for you to get a 250DR, even if, as you say, the 282 should really come first.
What’s the problem with your 200? Whatever it is, it’s almost certainly repairable. So unless you like the idea of an expensive doorstop, I guess it’s worth getting it fixed, even if only so that you can sell it.
Thanks,
Fault is a definite scratching/crackling noise in one channel ®, but only when both channels operating. If I balance to faulty channel only, no problem. (Yes tried swapping speakers around, different speakers, checked cables). Thing is, am not certain 200 faulty. Could by my NAC202 or HiCAP2DR, but as problem manifests itself through all sources inputs (but not at all via my Headline, which also taps off the NAC202), leads me to think power amp is the problem…?
I did 202/250 for a bit while I waited for a 282 to come along. Not as good as as 282/200 but in your circumstances I wouldn’t worry about it. You’ll really notice the improvement when you do get to a 282 as well!
In the absence of a firm diagnosis, I would turn off the 200 just in case it has an output fault which may, in turn, fry your speakers. If you can get it to a dealer or service agent, great, but if that’s not possible right now, maybe a 250DR would be a good way to keep the music playing.
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