I love my system and the way it sounds, but sometimes I wish it had a bit more “slam” or “weight” at the lower end. I would say it’s very balanced and the speakers are very revealing in the midrange. I recently moved my only powerline from the 555ps to the NAP300 and that brought more weight to the lower end. It got me thinking…
I have 3 options for upgrades. Which might bring more “weight” to the sound:
another hicap to the 282 (mine isn’t DR either)
a decent power block (mine is cheap. I already have a dedicated radial)
There is an obvious 4th option, though more expensive: better speakers. The relatively small lightweight 606, with its single 180mm bass driver, is unlikely to give as much weight and depth in the bass as its larger brethren.
Thanks @Innocent_Bystander. I was thinking more around how do I tweak the sound presentation of what I’ve got.
Imagine if my NAC282 had a bass and treble control (like some other, usually cheaper amplifiers). In this situation I would just want to turn the bass dial slightly right of neutral….
I was amassed what the powerline on the power amp did. What other small tweaks can I do?
Second hand hi-lines and power-lines certainly don’t break the bank. I just don’t know where to start? The power into the system, the system itself or the interconnects between the system?
Here is an up to date photo. I have moved the speakers out a little, as it created a much more open soundstage and more air around instruments. I don’t really want to move the speaker back, because I will sacrifice midrange clarity.
The system has plenty of slam when you turn it up. It’s more about the balance between treble, midrange and bass.
If you had to weight the sound (not at all scientific), at the moment I would say it’s 33.3:33.3:33.3% between them all. I could be bold and say before I put the powerline on the NAP300, the system was 34:34:32% from treble to midrange to bass.
If a powerline can move the bass by 1%, I think you guys can find me another 1% towards bass?
(Note: the percentages above are largely for communication, not via any real science or anything)
I would look at your mains - a better mains block would be at the top of my list for the type of more subtle change and low end reassurance you are looking to improve, also (after the block is sorted) heavier gauge mains cable to your block and power amp if needed…
A poor (or not good enough) quality mains block should be avoided in a good system like yours, so you would be doing a good thing anyway!
Don’t think any off your suggestions are going to give you what you want.
I would first try moving 5he speakers backwards towards the rear wall, and see how that goes.
After that if it doesn’t work for you, then add a sub or even better 2.
If you don’t want to do that then different speakers it is
The Titan 606 is an isobaric design. There are in fact two mid / bass units albeit one cannot be seen. I’d say in my room, with the NAP 300, the balance can tip in the bass direction with some material. It’s surprising how much the room can influence the outcome sometimes. Tinkering with position is definitely worth the effort. Powerlines on all of the components may well assist but the room might just need different speakers. Hopefully not. I don’t think you would regret the Powerlines especially if bought s/h and they may just provide that little bit of extra weight you are seeking. Sorry @Innocent_Bystander, I should really have replied to @richardjpaterson !
I thoroughly endorse Christopher M’s recommendation of a Hydra. But you need to get one with the right number of ‘heads’, as any unused ones can (apparently) lead to unwanted noise in the system,
Ring Grahams HiFi in Canonbury, London. If they don’t have the one you need, they’ll make one up in a couple of days.
Yes I’ve read good things about the hydra, and would save me a fortune vs a power block and powerlines. I’ve also read that they would invalidate your warranties and perhaps even any insurance? I guess I need to do some more reading…I guess also for £225 what have you got to lose?
The hydra is good - and anyone who says it will invalidate your warranty or insurance is talking bollocks - but a good block such as the MusicWorks G3 should be better. I’d forget an extra Hicap and get a Supercap DR.
