I’m wondering what you use to treat your speaker veneer to look as new again? I’ve seen some use boiled linseed oil with great results. Please share 
That depends on the existing finish. Danish oil on a lacquered surface will not really do very much, and may just attract dust to make a sticky surface. If the surface is not lacquered then use a wood cleaner to remove all old oil or wax before putting a thin coat of danish oil on, leave for 48 hours and then apply a second coat. Leave for 24 hours and then buff off any residue.
I find tung oil preferable but it takes longer to soak in and dry off. You need a lot more patience.
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Pure tung oil dries slowly because it has no added drying agents which many wood treatment oils have. I don’t find it a problem, other than having to wait 24 hours between coats. Liberon make a quick drying version for the impatient. Their finishing oil is also nice.
Hardwax oil is another option, with a choice of matt, satin or gloss. Very easy to apply.
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As Bruss mentioned, it is critical you know what the original finish was otherwise you can end up with a real mess.
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Current speakers nothing at all yet, other than an occasional wipe with microfibre duster. But then they are only 10 years or so old. My original walnut veneered IMFs I had from mid 1970s just had the occasional wipe with a furniture spray polish, sometimes one with beeswax, sprayed on a cloth then lightly wiped over. Back in my family again from a few years ago , the veneer still looks good other than the inevitable scratches from 8 home moves over 48 years.
I don’t know of any speaker manufacturer that doesn’t finish their speakers with a polyurethane clearcoat (matte, satin or gloss). Oil/wax will do nothing for the finish.
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I second the need to determine the base veneer and finish.
Most factory veneered finishes require nothing aside from the occasional pledge or equivalent dusting.
Some open pore veneers ( ie ones without a urethane or sealed finish) can benefit from a light beeswax or lemon oil wipe down. Either way, it’s important to make sure there is no residue left on the speaker that may discolor or attract dust & dirt. My old dynaudio contour monitors responded well to a bit of Murphys oil soap. Something more exotic like the solid walnut sonus faber amators might benefit from something to hydrate the wood and maintain the natural oils, but be aware that whatever goes on should maintain the intended finish and not alter the way the wood can breathe.
Lacquer finishes are a whole different thing and should be left to professionals.
The maker will almost certainly tell you what to use. For example, Linn and Naim would always just say linseed oil. Many will indicate somewhere on their site. Though the Tannoy FAQ is a bit opaque, a question to their support portal might yield a definitive answer for you.
My speakers are a piano black high gloss finish. I use the same product I use for a high end auto paint finish (like for the BMW I used to own). Zaino Bros polish and protectant.
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On high gloss finishes I like Plexus
My Tannoys come with their “own” wax which is made by Liberon (black bison walnut) but I find it gives bit hard and glossy finish and bit tough to get an even good looking finish. I’ve seen some treating their new tannoy cabs with linseed oil and the grain come forward in such a beatiful way so I’m thinking I will try some at the bottom of the speaker cab and see how I like it.
A non wax-based wood cleanser like Milsek should also be safe for any genuine wood veneer.
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You mean to remove old wax before applying new?
No, just to cleanse and bring back natural shine. I have some expensive wooden ornaments where it was advised by the makers to just clean them with Milsek to bring back natural grain shine without the use of additional wax and oils.
You can use it to strip off grime by applying and leaving for a couple hours and then buffing off but I was advised against this. Just a dab on a rag and pretend like you are polishing.
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Unless it is teak when you use teak oil and no furniture polish.
I’d be wary about applying linseed oil to a finish already treated with a wax, could end up a right mess. You may be just using too much of the supplied wax, heat it up a bit first and then apply sparingly and give a good buff afterwards. If it was supplied with the Tannoys then I’d be inclined to stay with it but in reality it should only need to be done after a few years at most I would have thought
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This is a great finish, not sure I would change it. Did they give you a tin of the solid wax? Liberon also do a liquid version which I find much easier to apply.
If you switch to an oil finish, you might get away with it. Try a test area first. If it doesn’t work, Liberon make a wax polish remover which would clean off the old finish ready for oiling.
If the surface was originally lacquered or varnished, it’s fine to use a wax finish on top, but oil on top of varnish doesn’t really work.
Tannoy send along the solid wax with all their speakers in Legacy and GR range. I might connect with liberon and ask about moving to their oil solution because Tannoy support is awful.
You will need to know what the original finish is to get a useful suggestion from Liberon. Oils should soak into the wood, which they cannot do if there is a layer of lacquer or varnish on it.
No lacquer or varnish on these series from tannoy 
They include this wax and explain in the manual to treat them at least once a year.