Thanks, Dev. I have a new Te Kaitora Rua onboard the ARO, so I’m sorted for the present.
One of the best Graham, if you ever get bored of it, please give it to me
Graham, the Dynavector XV1 as well as the SPU can be accommodated by the ARO, but you’ll need the heavy counterweight. You may also need just a touch more weight on the anti-skate bias weight (I needed this with the SPU) - you can either use a heavier bias weight if you can source, or just slip a small nut over the fishing line and secure on top of the existing weight with a tiny bit of blu-tak.
The XV-1T is an awesome cartridge and works very well in the ARO. If money were no object then I reckon that’s where my money might well go.
The SPU Royal N can sound really lovely, but it does have some weaknesses that might frustrate long term - it is, after all, a bit of a dinosaur in the world of cartridges. Tracking is not its strength and high level cuts can catch it out. Also, as Dev says, the split “cheese” piece that goes between the cartridge and head shell can be problematic with the grounding. At the factory we had to scrape off some of the anodising, and in extreme cases, a copper interface is needed, so not exactly plug and play!
Great post Richard. I think I would also go for a XV-1T next
Thanks, Richard, I had completely forgotten about the ‘heavy’ counterweight for the ARO - I suspect that they were pretty rare. You never see them for sale, perhaps those who have them don’t part with them.
Keep an eye and ear out for one - they do turn up - very useful for any ARO owner.
I will keep an eye open, Richard, but I’m unlikely to need the heavy counterweight for either of my two AROs.
You never know… I’m sure your dealer (Peter?) can sort one out for you, if need be.
Thanks, Richard. Peter is due to visit soon to set up my second LP12, so I will ask.
Take the baseboard off and put Naim CDS1/2 metal feet on your LP12. The Linn fan boys won’t like it, but your LP12 will love it. Also if you can get a Mana shelf for it, even better.
How about using the ARO2 counterweight…?
Hello, Dev, I have replacement feet that came when I upgraded a couple of years ago - the Keel upgrade (I think).
I don’t know how well (or not) it would fit. Also I’m not sure whether they are sold separately.
For me it was a revelation to move the LP12 from Mana to Naim Fraim.
I have a lot of Fraim and Mana, in all my systems. Put simply to my ears the Fraim is a more rounded sound, very good bass. Mana is slightly cleaner with a bit more snap. I really like them both and would not have any other stand. Stands make a big change to the overall precision and control. I find the Phonosophie prefers Mana as does some of my other equipment. I did this experiment recently in my study system with IBL. Anorak alert!
I’ve always used the heavy counterweight with XX-2 Mk 2. It was definitely an improvement compared with standard, although done so long ago that I can’t elaborate on what this was.
I had my 552 “DR’d” and recapped a few years back. It was a significant upgrade over my then 18 year old 552. If you like it now just wait… mine took a good 6 weeks before the magic set in. You will find the performance will vary from week to week as the break-in process proceeds.
The 552DR I have just added to my system has been very, very special.
Just looking at your system, the core of which is similar to mine, I would suggest if you want to continue the DR journey do the SNAXO Supercap first. My experience is this should have the best possible PS and a DR upgrade here really releases more perfomance. I’d also suggest my favourite VFM upgrade-a SuperLumina ‘active’ cable between the 552PS and the SNAXO Supercap. Very impressive in my system. This is a DIN4 to DIN4 SNAIC.
I have no doubt that making your 250’s all DR would be worthwile at some point but nobody really knows about the new kit and how well it integrates with a system such as yours.
Thank you Bruce how did you find the SL cable vs Hiline ?
Hiline (as an interconnect over the standard lavender from my NDS) I found to be a modest improvement only. Say a 3/10. SL I much preferred. Call it 6/10. Ditto SL DIN to XLR on each 250. Good but incremental. The ‘active’ SL cable I described was far more convincing as an update over a standard SNAIC. Easy to try each at home.