Good news. I spoke with the seller and with his encouragement was able to open the unit and retrieve the part. It works just fine and sounds amazing. I have read where some people describe the sound as edgy but I would describe it as olive, which I like. Great match with 52/250/SL2s.
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Excellent, BTW I always found Fraim supported the CDX2 well, failing that resting on sorbothane can warm the sound of the CDP slightly.
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Svetty,
I own a CD555 and have read on this forum how this centre part has broken and Naim would then replace the whole laser unit. Mine is thankfully all good but I had wondered if there was a way of getting something made using a 3D printer rather than having the whole thing replaced so great to hear that you can purchase the part via other sources. Alloy of course going to also be far more durable.
These units are built like tanks, good news you managed to encourage this part out of the box. In respect of sound, this is of course all very subjective, I currently own a CD555, prior a CDS3 and CD5 with the various power supply’s to upgrade further Flatcap, Hi Cap, XPS & PS555. I would say the CDS3 was probably most neutral, bordering mellow, the CD5 was great on vocals and would just go for it, CD555 best of all worlds for me, far more extraction of detail down in the mix but never clinical, I have two PS555 connected and this absolutely steps things up. I have never heard the CDX but I suspect its probably more like a much improved CD5 than the sonics of a CDS3, ultimately, it comes down to what you like, I would guess you could pick up a XPS at a very good price now if you down already have this to upgrade further.
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I spoke to Naim support recently and they currently have the plastic platters (or hub) for the CD555 in stock. I think, as was suggested here some time ago, they must have used 3D printing to produce them.
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Good to know 
Now that I’ve gotten a taste of danger…
The OCD in me is stuck on the fact that the tray is ever so slightly off center.
I have read old forum posts that talk about the ability to adjust it via two screws on the tray. But which two screws??
Russian roulette! id tweak one and see if you can see any movement in the plane of the dics drawer, not how far you turned it so you can return it… should be fine if you are careful and only move one bolt at a time slowly
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This is definitely best undertaken by an experienced dealer as it’s easy to muck it up.
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Unfortunately I do not have a local dealer - I think my only option is to send
it across the country from California to Plurison’s receiving address in New York.
Short of that, is it at all possible to do this on my own? Or is it just too fraught?
It is possible, but obviously not advisable without knowing what you’re doing. I would suggest you contact Naim support, who can advise you.
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Okay thanks. I am getting the distinct impression this is not a DIY project!
Maybe AV option US could fix , as you live in California. But I think it’s North America, if I am not wrong. Still a long travel.
Can you upload a picture of the underside of the tray while open please?
Regards
Neil.
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Which way does the tray need to be moved to make it central to the main fascia?
Regards
Neil.
Ok - the lateral movement is a problem, because the tray fascia is already hard against the tray itself:
The height can be adjusted using the bolt circled in red in the following picture.
Note that the entire tray geometry is based around the dome headed screw circled in blue. This screw needs to be released by turning clockwise to lower the entire assembly & anticlockwise to raise it.
The screw circled in yellow will pull the far side of the tray down. It’s a balancing act that is easier to understand if you have a grasp of physics!
Don’t adjust the rearmost screw if you are happy with the plane of the tray.
Here’s a crude pic of the arrangement.
If you are in any doubt - don’t try to adjust. You could be opening a can of worms!
Also, do not overtighten anything - the red/yellow bolts in paticular have a very shallow thread (to avoid fouling the tray) and will strip with relative ease.
I wish you luck if you decide to proceed!
Regards
Neil.
Edit: The dome headed screw is the same size hex head as the red/yellow screws, but the head is shallow, so be carefull of “cam out”.
Edit #2 Now that you have experience of removing the cover, loosen the four 5.5mm nuts that hold the fascia brackets to the chassis. Then while pulling the fascia slightly to the left (away from the transformer) tighten the four bolts. The tolerance on the holes should allow adjustment of the tray in relation to the fascia.
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