Good point but I guess it’s not about load. If it was load you could probably run your hi fi on 1.5mm2 just in load terms if you follow the IEE regs. People get confused with fuse sizes and actually what current to drawn by a device).
That said I am going to run 18 meters of 4mm2 audio quality mains cable from a new distribution board connected to the consumer unit.
Connected to audio quality socket then to power block connected to socket via a good quality mains lead.
IME, for Naim components power cables don’t add much to the party but PSUs definitely do. The Tibia (or whatever it is now) supplied with Naim is actually quite good. I have all Naim gear and PSUs powered with AV Options Tibia12+ (which is essentially a cryoed, upgraded gauge/version of the one supplied). Good and relatively inexpensive. Cannot argue with installing dedicated lines. It is the cheapest, most effective way of taking all of this cable and conditioner upgrading out of the equation entirely. Once you do it you never think about such things again, and you save yourself a ton of money and time comparing in the process. That you cannot put a price on.
Why do you need a 6 way strip & a Hydra ?? I see you have a lot of boxes, so I guess thats the answer
The Hydra is a better quality than the cheapo power strip & I believe its input lead is 2.5mm so is a better current carrier than your proposed Naim PL Lite with 0.75mm.
Therefore would use the Hydra plugged into the wall to supply the more power hungry & SQ sensitive items & the lesser items from the power strip thats plugged into the last leg of the Hydra.
But if I was in your box count situation, I would look at a 10 way strip from Olson Electronics (see their www)
Or do as I always do, make your own.
Wholeheartedly agree here. I’m, personally, not a fan of conditioners of any kind with Naim gear. Completely my opinion, though. Passive plug-in types I’ve found to be beneficial, such as the CablePro Noisetrapper (no longer made, unfortunately) or Wiremold units (maybe even an Audience Adept Response passive). I no longer have those, but I do use an AC Regenerator—the PS Audio Stellar P3—and plug all sources into it. My SN2 goes directly into the wall outlet. Even with dedicated 20a lines, I was/am gobsmacked with what the PS Audio power plant did/does. It was one of the most worthwhile investments I’ve made with regard to the subject. If I had even a fraction of the ‘dirty’ lines like many suffer I would look heavily into an AC Regenerator or Isolation Transformer, the latter preferably away from the main system or in another location altogether due to the often loud, audible buzz.
Yes you need a block (power strip)
There are loads on the market, from cheap as chips up to silly money, maybe something in between is better.
The input cable needs to be a reasonable current carrying size, I suggest 2.5mm/2 is OK for your system that you’ve listed in your profile.
There are so many on the market & not knowing your budget its hard to know were to start.
The usual forum favourite is Wireworld Matrix UK 6 Way Power Hub v2, but its £130 & needs an extra 13A to IEC320 cable to plug it into the wall
MCRU have a large selection, I’m looking at the Audiophile Mains Block Silver Plated, it has an attached cable & you can specify the length. It costs £85 up to £109.
The UK version is 4, yes (US has 6). I only plug sources into it in ‘regen’ mode, though I could use the high current outlet for the SN2. I found there was a subtle difference by plugging it directly to the wall, plus I didn’t want to push it with the P3.
You’re correct Mike, the cable spec is well over rated for the actual load – this would normally suit an electric cooker, power shower.
Naim kit likes a good low impedance supply so I followed Naim’s recommendation to get the Hi-Fi onto a dedicated supply, preferably 30A / 45A rated. My electrician was happy to use 10mm2 T+E for the radial, terminated to a single double socket. It’s protected with a 32A type C MCB. I have a 25m run between the lounge and dedicated CU so decided to go for 10mm2 rather than 6mm2. Your electrician can advise appropriately.
I am probably one of the few people who have changed or upgraded a previously installed radial spur. I upgraded from 6mm cable to 10 mm cooker wire and I changed from a dedicated high amp slot on my main consumer unit to a dedicated consumer unit as specked above, type c breaker etc. I also changed a silver plated special hifi double socket to the bog standard mk double socket. In order to make this easier for the electrician I used a 47 mm back box (pattress) which means there’s more room for the cable. When I say I did this I mean I crawled around in the loft spaces and walls but the electrician connected it all up and separated the mains cabling after the meter and fitted the new Hager consumer unit. There was to our ears a significant uplift in sound quality. My wife wears hearing aids but noticed the improvement immediately.
The 47 mm pattress makes life easier.
So whether it was the separate consumer unit or the 10 mm cabling , I noticed a big improvement over the previous installation which I had had done a few years ago and hadn’t given me much improvement at that time albeit with a different system then.
I used the diagram above to advise my only moderately cynical electrician. Should we put all this advice info for Uk owners into faq?
