Mike –A few years ago now when we redecorated, I took the opportunity to clean up and tighten all the connections on the lounge ring sockets including back at the CU which made a surprising difference. I’d always planned to go the whole hog and get a dedicated radial and CU installed as the Hi-Fi was always sharing the ring with quite a few other items so got a few electricians out back in 2018 to quote for what I wanted. Whilst I can’t control what’s happening on the incoming supply to the house, I can make the most of what I’ve got with the dedicated supply connected as close as possible to the incoming supply.
Differences - Bass is the main thing, more tuneful, deeper and tighter via the dedicated supply and this is on my non Naim amp, My little Nait 1 benefits the most when I bring that out for a play. For me though it’s the consistency in system performance when using the dedicated supply – it just doesn’t change whatever else is going on in the house. For example on the lounge ring, the sound of the system would noticeably degrade if I switched on our Plasma TV. As we also use the system for TV sound we get better performance here now too.
My Electrician used a deeper back box to give more room behind the socket and had no issues with the 10mm2 cable.
Good stuff John. You only hope to do this once so good to know you found an improvement going to the full dedicated CU. It’s something I wished I’d done a long time ago and for the cost it’s a no brainer.
You are all doing a good job in persuading me. I will go for the 10mm2 at this stage into the existing dist board. I will leave enough slack to enable a second dist board to be installed.
I honestly think this is the best way to go. I wish more people would look much more seriously at this solution versus spending silly monies on cables and conditioning. Silly because better (in a myriad of ways, not just SQ-wise) and worthwhile improvements can be had by exploring and executing this route; the other route just has one chasing rainbows and shelling out more than what’s ever promised from companies and/or returned. Again, I’m talking if one can reasonably do it, not for those in apartments, etc. I suppose the main reason can be chalked up to its too out of sight, out of mind (e.g., it’s in a wall); that and folks have difficulty being bothered or interrupted with an electrician in their home and possible minor contruction, either of which still costs far less (materials, thicker cable gauge runs, labor and so on). Anyway, @Mike1, you won’t believe the difference it is going to make.
I’m not sure what socket it is to be honest - Possibly Schneider ? Nothing special anyway, same as the cable. I’m not really up on what sockets are ‘best’ these days (used to be Crabtree) but as Mike says, you can’t go wrong with MK. There are of course more exotic audiophile sockets available but I expect diminishing returns here.
I used the mk logic plus because somewhere on this forum someone said they were the best. My previous socket was actually an mk that had been silver plated to enhance performance and again on the forum the general view is that this adds nothing to the mix.
It now is enhancing the performance of my chest freezer.
The mk logic plus socket unswitched in white was less than a fiver. I lashed out and bought a red one for £15.00 The 10mm cable I used was half the price of the stuff it replaced. The back box was also about a fiver, I think.
Do remember you are on a forum where members discuss best humidity for best sound. You need to put on some filters and make choices yourself otherwise you’ll drown
I have one of these Titan Audio power blocks with Audioquest NRG Z3 from wall socket to block then a mixture of Titan Audio Helios and RA power leads to equipment. A fuss free and smooth sounding set up.
And now they’ve come up with this? What will they think of next?
I very much doubt there is any science behind 10mm sq other than the increased current capability etc.
It may be audiable but I’d never entertain asking an electrician to fit something so over engineered for a 13A socket outlet. Having worked in the industry I’d be embarrassed. Not knocking anyone for doing this but isn’t for me.
Although I can see the rationale behind a dedicated circuit.
I agree in principle. Working with my electrician, 12-gauge Romex for 20a in the US is more than plenty to handle the electrical currents associated with audio. It just isn’t that demanding compared to most of what they’re used to wiring. I initially asked him for 10-gauge and he looked at me as if was wearing a diaper on my head.
I can image! 10mm sq is insane simply due to its heft. Just trying to fit it into the back of a faceplate would have me cursing.
I had a 7kW EV wall box fitted for my car and they just used 6mm sq SWA. Depending on the installation type, 10mm sq can carry more current than my 7kW charger!
However, I’m assuming that the recommended cable size isn’t for outright current capability but something else.
It would seem it’s nothing to do with capacity. Having said that a cable size is calculated on a number of things not just load. One important element being length.
Think we are all agreed this has nothing to do with load.
I am going to try and terminate 10mm into a socket with. 40mm back box tomorrow.
Don’t forget it’s being suggested 10mm2 radials so not just one. !!!
