Power Cables and supplies

No, completely get it. I am just pointing out a potential overkill scenario, not to mention the fun it is working with that thickness.

Thatā€™s dead right but 10mm cable is small really itā€™s a matter of what you are used to.

Itā€™s an interesting debate though. It does sound over the top but probably cheaper than a good Naim power supply

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Sure but unless you live in a mansion with a CU located in the west wing (and your hi-fiā€™s east) then Iā€™d imagine length doesnā€™t come into it either.

Radials make it even worse. The poor electrician (or in this case, you :joy:).

Iā€™m sure itā€™ll sound great though so best of luck with the installation.

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Not completely sure yet. Always a worry with these things you do a lot of work and canā€™t hear the difference. There is no easy route from the dist board to the music room but if I am gonna do it I might as well make it 3x10mm if that makes sense. That also means I avoid the 6 way block.

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No doubt there.
Just for fun, here is Romex in-wall wiring used for my dedicated room. It is already quite thick and heavyā€¦
IMG_4094

Iā€™m sure itā€™ll be great, given the number of positive experiences on here. Like you say, itā€™s far cheaper than a Naim PSU (a Hi Cap is about Ā£1.5k nowadays) so not a huge loss if itā€™s not what you expected and will be a nice lockdown project.

My only concern would be ensuring enough length behind each faceplate for reterminating in future as itā€™s so stiff. I see youā€™re going for a 40mm backbox but might be worth leaving more slack if routing in a stud wall. Apologies if this has already been mentioned up thread.

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No thatā€™s a good point. The cables will be coming from under the floor so I will leave slack as you rightly suggest.

Think all agree there should be a noticeable difference.

Why did you use Romex rather than standard 10mm ??

NM (non-metallic) Romex is pretty typical with new construction builds in the states. There are other brands, but Romex is a standard. Itā€™s very good, too.

Mike ā€“ you donā€™t have to have 3 radials. Choose as many as you need. I originally posted a couple of diagrams (One of which is reposted in this thread) based on the recommendations from Naim and others that had done this. Iā€™d drawn up one to give to Electricians who came to quote for my (UK based) installation to make it easier to explain what I wanted. Regulations change and get updated and so your Electrician will install your installation based on the latest regulations, size the circuit protection appropriately and then will sign off the installation.

As my installation was done to 17th edition regs, I updated the original diagram to reflect initial changes in the 18th and just showed additional radials connected. For my own installation, I just went for a single radial to double socket as thatā€™s all I need. If I did need more in the future then Iā€™d just use something like a Grahams Hydra. Others prefer multiple radials.

10mm2 T&E into a 13A socketā€¦As others mention, itā€™s tight and you canā€™t just attach the wires and push everything back in and hope for the best. The wires need ā€˜dressingā€™ into the back box to align them with the terminals before securing the terminal screws so that minimal stress is placed on the socket. My Electrician had no issues and didnā€™t see this as problematic.

Hope that helps ā€“ there are lots of threads on here on dedicated mains so itā€™s worth doing a search.

Yes thatā€™s v helpful. I may go for 4 radials but only wire up 3.

The diagram complys with the IEE 18th edition. Although would not want non qualified fiddling this Henley Blocks.

Since the Music room has to have the floor taken up itā€™s worth at least running the cables.

Thanks for all your help.

Sounds like a plan. Iā€™ll be interested in how you get on.

A question please whilst we are on this topic.

Whatā€™s the shortest length that people recommend for a DIY mains-cable? Like most people space is tight behind most racks and DIY cables are pretty easy / cheap to build.

Would 400mm (16") suffice or is that too short?

I canā€™t see why youā€™d not make it as short as you need?
Clearly its difficult to fit a plug one end and an IEC the other if the cable were say 100mm.
I make all my own, using quality screened mains cable. And of course only earthing the screening at the plug end.

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Nothing is ā€˜tooā€™ short. There are some who say the PowerLineā€™s are made to a length to sound best, but Iā€™ve not read anything on the Naim www that says that. Whatever Iā€™m an electrical engineer so will probably take some convincing anyway.
I have made all mine to the required length, exception is x2 Powerline Liteā€™s & I have folded them to tidy up the surplus (to protect the resale value - if & when).

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Thanks both, I did think that would be the case but wondered if there was some NAIM-science that meant they were supposed to be a minimum length.

Iā€™ve built a few of my own using MK Toughplugs and screened cable which are earthed at the plug-end only. Iā€™ve got a few IEC connectors left over so will look to build some shorter lengths as Iā€™ve just moved my rack and donā€™t have as much space to hide excess cables.

ā€¦ and thats the correct way. The screen should not be an integral part of the earth circuit, it should be used like a grounded/earthed conduit.
I had MK Toughplugs at one time, but have since changed to BG Permaplug because the screened cable size & with a screwed cable clamp it fits into them better.
Wall plug is Furutech with the L-shape body

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Agreed - the MKā€™s are a night-mare to wire up as the entry is so narrow when using 12mm cable.

Assume you mean ā€˜IECā€™ as already mentioned swapping to BG Permaplugs ?

I did mean the 13A plug, the Furutech FI-1363 L-shaped body is in the wall power socket, its wired with Lapp Olflex CY 100 & connects to an 8 way power board with MK double sockets
The BG Permaplugs go into the power board & feed the amp etc.

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Wow, ā€˜a real live force fieldā€™ I wonder if the ā€˜Klingonsā€™ have the technology to counter this ?

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