I will also try to plugged my 500 direct to wall and the rest to my Matrix as yours good idea to test…and where did you plugged your Melco server?
Hi @Darkebear ,
That’s exactly what I’ll do.
I bought 2x two wall sockets :
FURUTECH FT-SWS-D NCF (R)
And some high gauge one strand cable :
Neotech, Ultra Pure 7N Onho Continuous Cast (UP-OCC).
The question is: how to wire them?
Star-wire everything: live, neutral and earth.
Or just earth?
A few other people also preferred their Power Amp direct to wall and the rest into their block - and then sorted out a sequence on their particular block they liked.
My concept guiding the implementation for me - that works for me in this system - is to have the noisy high-transient current drawing devices direct into wall - the class B amps are that.
The rest of the devices are essentially class A drawing near-constant current but different degrees of noise and then their interactions with the ‘next’ box they connect to via music feed connectors.
I then arrange the power plug-in sequence so that any loops created between a box and completed via the mains circuit do not intersect other such loops - so daisy-chain in sequence.
All items on the block will establish a relative to each-other low mains noise circuit island from the Power Amps and make one connection (the block to wall lead) with the Power Amp mains connection.
My view is that it is the local current flowing between sockets that created the voltages that then cause noise currents to be induced into the equipment, so things that draw smaller near-constant current should not be inducing larger transient voltages - as the power Amp(s) have to be doing. So not having the Power Amp sit inside the block introducing its own relative mains noise seems to be a good idea.
Melco - I plug that in with the Power Amps. It connects to ND555 using a balanced Ethernet feed (which should not be too sensitive to circulation of noise as unbalanced feeds) so I tried it there and I liked it so left it there - any power supply noise in that box should then be in with the Amps and more isolated from the Analogue circuits, but I had not actually tried elsewhere so this may not be best, but it sounds good so I left it.
The above is my general philosophy of how I approached this once I found it mattered and also that it seemed to work.
I’m not saying it is correct - just that by following it I get good results.
DB.
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“I think a cheaper power strip in the all market can be also equally good…higher prices does not
mean it`s better”
Of course it can be, but there is no other power strip on the market that has ARAY technology and once you have listened to the M6, it will probably be difficult to resist… But it is expensive, I agree.
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yes, the soup is so much better!
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As this thread has moved on quite a bit, this might be a good time to reiterate that Linn products should go straight into the wall and not into the power strip.
Whouah! With Linn audio people make such economies! They don’t need to buy an expensive switch, neither audiophile Ethernet cables, neither a powerblock……Maybe neither audiophile interconnects.
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What so special about ARAY technology and what does it contribute to chord M6
I made this change recently. I had a spare Powerline, so I put it between the wall plug and my Isotek power board and then moved the 250DR plug from the power board to a second wall plug and it’s worked well. I haven’t thought about plug order on the board though.
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I do not know how the ARAY technology works, you can ask a technician about that, but I know that it works. Listen and you will see for yourself.
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I was interested to read this as I had assumed it to be the reverse.
I have a Hi-Cap2 and NAP140 power amp - which of these two comes first?
And does this only apply if the power-strip is wired serially?
The NAP 140 amp needs to be plugged in first, and then the HICAP. You can of course reverse the order and see if it makes any difference.
On the subject of plugging order; I have always used star wired strips & blocks and tried many. In my experience it’s a myth that star wired sockets sound the same. They don’t. Not even with equal length wiring (which is rare by itself).
A few weeks on with the Puritan surfaced an interesting aspect/characteristic. As the star wiring is done from a small PCB in the centre, it’s wired as 2 x 4. And indeed, the sockets sound virtually identical ‘in pairs’ from the centre outwards if that makes sense. There still is a sonic difference between 1 and 4 to either side. This provides interesting options for the plugging order.
Very happy with this power strip.
BTW, Puritan can do ‘customs’ as well. Different sockets, inlet, wiring etc.
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WW replied to my question in this regard « We recommend connecting high-current demand pieces (power amps) closest to the inlet. »
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Star wire it all and do them all the same lenght, as then they will all be the same and you can plug in any order you like as they are all the same so will sound the same
That makes most sense.
Indeed - and closest is actually on the wall socket - this is what I do.
So wall double-socket has one side for the Power Amp and the other for the WW block, which in turn has Pre then source(s).
Placing Power Amp anywhere on block is worse I found - bass goes boomy and lumpy and not in any way better. Easy to try to determine what you prefer, as perhaps with smaller speakers the bass problem is not as acute - but with large full-range speakers it does not work as well into the blocks I have tried, but perhaps some designs sort that out.
In any and all cases - experiment and decide yourself, as no point doing what is suggested if it sounds worse - IMO of course! 
DB.
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Sorry Mike
Electricity is not a science.
There is a pragmatic applied science of electrical engineering.
But there are indeed genuine mysteries about what electricity is and how it works.
Some of these grey areas were touched on in this thread:
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Do you have shares in Chord?
Lighten up JimDog, it’s a leg pull towards French Rooster
And BTW, I’m an electrical engineer.
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