well, at least my experience and view - filtration can be attractive on paper, claims a lot, and may be ok for some sources/DACs but not for amps … not for me anyway and not even for sources tbh.
So, I would avoid any active (or in-line) filtration for noise reduction. Some premium blocks employ good passive noise reduction and this could likely be the case for the Chord one to come (called GroundAray) … but every company would have some name for it that they use, so just an example.
I liked the Puritan PS108 but it did something funny for my bass that sounded a bit hollow and unnatural (for me), although many seem to like it as it’s a clean (unfiltered) design, decent and very well constructed (if not slightly on the big side). I also had a longer demo with the PS156 and although it was supposed to not limit current (well, less than e.g. Audioquest at least), I did not like the overall presentation and felt it restricted music similar to other active mains conditioners.
Maybe @garcon has tried. He tried the Styx , but didn’t liked.
One powerblock from France, that was on my radar , is The LH audio barrette secteur. Some good reviews here.
580 euros, from France.
not tried the Helios, at the time I was looking at their range they had the Styx and Eros, so I got the Eros (no comparison really). Titan Audio, however, keep their mains block named after the wiring they use and one can get some idea, and I think makes a difference …
I compared my WW Martix 2 to a MusicWorks Reflex Ultra G3, first with a basic bottom then added a sparkly bottom, both all PowerLine’d with the NAP plugged directly into the wall.
No comparison. The G3 with sparkly bottom is a significant improvement over the Matrix 2. I know you say these improvements vary by system, but I believe your system is so resolving, I am willing to bet you will be impressed with the G3.
I know you like to stop fiddling when you have achieved a good result, but this would be a very simple experiment, should you feel the urge.
Here we go. In all pictures the top part is the £100 merlin and the bottom £35 from Amazon. Apart from the fuse on the amazon one i would say they are identical…i will be sending this to Future Shop, i expect better. The sockets are buzz bar type and also appear identical
The iec, casing and plug pin holes are identical so they’ve had them made from a standard supplier in the electrical industry, the only difference being the end brackets and fuse holder. it happens often in the hi-fi industry, putting a gloss sticker on the casing to somehow prove it’s a mark of quality. It’s why i do much research before buying certain electrical hi-fi items or sticking with hospital grade stuff as it’s built to a high standard and has to work well. I’ve long given up thinking i can get real good quality for low prices.
One more difference, the switch in the Amazon one lights up, the one in the taurantula does not. I will concede this has some science!
I have noticed a difference in SQ so must be down to the shielded cable from the wall socket to the block. That being the case buying another cable should bring the Amazon block up to the same level.
I will however now take a look for a switch without a light…
Good point doesn’t really or the fuse given the plugs all have their own fuses. And in my case they are the correct value for the equipment on the end😁