I recently bought a hi cap dr for powering my SN3, haven’t hooked it up yet but noticed it came with a standard power lead
Would it be preferable to use a powerline light cable
Thanks
I would…
I just updated the standard cable to 1.5mm 2 so that it complied with safety regs to have the must use 13A mains fuse. 
Safety and regs mean more to me than fads.
My both Powerline lites are the boxes to pass on later.
They are only 0.75mm2 cable with rewire able plug and should be fuse fitted no higher than. 7A-10A
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Why you have to hijack every thread to inform us that you replaced yours for safety reasons. The OP obviously is asking something different.
Yes, we know by now that you rewire everything because it is supposedly safer according to you. Please let the rest of us experiment in peace with factory made cables.
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All Skeptikal is doing is pointing out the UK regulations
I hope that if, in the UK people, take notice if they want their house insurance to be valid
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The old standard HiCap power lead was a 0.75mm/2 cable with a moulded on IEC 320 female plug and an MK 13A plug.
The new standard HiCap power lead was the same cable but with a new Naim designed 13A plug, that was the Powerline Lite.
i.e. same cable, different plug.
When I had hicaps that was where the mist benfit was ha with PLLs. Great value for money. 
May your conscience and ignorance go with you.
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Thank you.
Safety first.
Why people think it’s smart to peddle danger beats me.
My good mate is a fire scene investigator for an insurance company and if they can find any reason not to pay they will. 
I hope the brake fluid on your car is not older than 2 years…? Otherwise your insurance is invalidated. 
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Changed every second service.
At each wheel not the reservoir.
Some bad dealers cheat and you only get one clear new line the rest is residual from previous.
There is no circulation of brake fluid it works on static compression application.
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Hi @Skeptikal I agree that it’s entirely appropriate to point out safety issues here
I am currently using a Powerline lite cable supplied with my NSC 222 - can I check that you saying that this cable does not comply with UK safety regs?
The chart is the latest regs fuse ratings for conductor area.
It’s good up to 7A fuse or 10A up to two metres long.
I know it seems petty but the regs are for a reason and if people want to stretch the rules then on their head be it.
I thought I was being a good guy pointing out that snake oil isn’t as important as death.
It’s always ok until it’s not.
How many here have bought chargers off auction sites to save a few quid. 
The fuse availability is as stated but commonly now are only either 3A or 13A
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Hi Skeptikal, I’m not an electrician by any stretch…. But seems strange that Naim would supply a product that doesn’t comply with the regs… is that what you are suggesting that they are doing?
I don’t have it yet but I do have one supplied with my SN3, and my uniti was also supplied with one….
Back to my original question what is it that makes it unsafe, is it because is fitted with a 13a fuse?
Would it work within regs if the fuse was replaced to a 10a
Thanks
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Yes it would.
The sole purpose of the fuse is to protect the cable. If the cable is rated at 10A and the fuse in the plug is 13A, then the fuse will not protect the cable at all.
The rules regs are the regs and the chances of something going wrong are very slim.
I am qualified hence why I try to help and get a kicking most times.
There isn’t an accident until it happens.
Fuses are rated to do a particular job and like anything else being switched on and off creates stresses and strains.
Naim are very high current devices with very beefy power supplies and this gives the product performance some heft.
Problem being less than a 13A is likely to fail on start up because of the current draw.
Another way to avoid this is a they suggest for “SQ” is to leave them switched on 24/7.
This is a small percentage of real world use so luck has a hand.
Putting a bolt in a plug would sound better than a flimsy fuse right but that’s what over rating a fuse does.
The reservoir should be changed first otherwise you are running old fluid through.
There may be some circulation through the ABS block. It’s worth triggering it after a fluid change if the block cannot be bled.
The brakes on my Cossie are electro-hydraulic for the assistance - no old fashioned vacuum servo. The level in the res will climb if the car has not been used and will go back to the correct level once the key is turned and the pump brings up the pressure.
My system gets bled through from master cylinder to each bleed point on four axles.
If you expect a garage to do better than that then you’re kidding yourself.
Most garages just do a visual car inspection and change the oil and sometimes the filter for £200-£300.
Complete rippoff
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A little too much over think is going on.
The regs are the regs, and we should respect them. OK, but let’s get practical.
A cable or component part is rated at X amps because that is the amperage that causes it or the component to rise by 1 degree C above the test cell ambient.
It’s the same for the fuse, a 13 amp current raises the fuse temp by 1’C. It will run continuously at that. It will blow over a few seconds at just over 21 amps. it will instantly blow at aprx 100 amps.
Same for a cable, a cable rated at 10 amps will run at 1’C above ambient if carrying 10 amps.
The IEC 320:plug, no matter who makes them, no matter what the cost or what rarefied metals they have, they are all rated at 10 amps.
Like I said, we should at least be aware of the regs, but in real life, very few, if any, cable assemblies such as we have plugged into the back of our audio boxes fully comply to the regs.
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Maybe in your house but not mine.
I make no apologies for only having my own and family well-being foremost.
If people want to penny pinch or live in ignorance then do it so nobody else is affected.
So you would happily use something not right and not care.
If you knew better.