ProAc Response D20R


I bought a few months ago a Nait 5SI to drive my previous pair of ProAc Studio 130.
One month ago, I decided to upgrade my speakers by a pair of ProAc Response D20R. For my dealer no problem for the 5SI to drive them correctly. What do you think about it?
What I want to say it’s that the sound is ok but I am not amazed about it…
Here is a photo of my installation. Yes there is a little 1 year boy at house, I can’t do what I want :sweat_smile:



If your Proacs are new they will take longer than one month to loosen up properly, from my own experience.

Congratulations. I sure love my Proacs. What I’ve found with mines is the better the electronics the better my D2R’s sound.

Not rocket science I suppose. Time and funds permitting I’d recommend a SN3 to drive them. Again I wouldn’t rush. Let them break in first as they will sound better in about 3 weeks.

1 Like

Welcome and congratulations with the purchase of the ProAc D20R speakers, I’m sure you will enjoy them.

I have no experience with the NAIT 5SI but did use ProAC D2D with a NAIT XS 2 and ProAC D30RS with a SN 2 and thought they sounded wonderful.

Did you bring your Nait 5SI to the dealers to demo with the speakers or a home demo period before purchase?

Yes they are new, my dealer said 200h minimum.

I used both the 5SI and the pair of D20R of my dealer to listen before buying. My pair of ProAc is new, the dealer directly command them to ProAc.

Supernait 2 here; it will work with a 5 but there’s a lot more speaker than amp.


Totally agree with what other chaps have said and I’m sorry but your systems is not well balanced (great source and speakers but relatively weak amplification). Whilst the ProAcs are easy to drive, they will have more to give with better amplification. Not sure what speaker cable you use but NACA5 has good synergy (the Naim/ProAc owners that have responded all use it) and is not too expensive. The forum is helpful but can be expensive - welcome.


I owned D20R for a year or two. You need a better amp. SN3 or SN2, and like any good speakers they need to be fed good stuff.


I also like them. For me also using other naim equipment.
282 and 300dr.

But on the 200 non dr and 202 it also sounded very nice.

1 Like

My dealer recommends re torquing periodically the ProAc speaker. It does make a difference with my D30R. Do not overdo it however,


I really do wish they’d publish the settings they use for torque. I agree with the don’t overdue it recommendation.

@MoiNo68 I use ProAc D20R’s with my SN3 and have absolutely no complaints. I think they sound great. Keep in mind, they’re easy to drive but in my opinion are at their best with more power.


Indeed, the loudspeakers are fixed with screws and plastic insert nuts inside the cabinet.

1 Like

What do you mean exactly? What needs to be re torquing

Likely referring to the torque screws that hold in place those fabulous ribbon tweeters and the equally fabulous Bass /Midrange driver. They both can become a little loose over time.

Assuming you remove the speakers grilles. :slight_smile:

1 Like

Many thanks. In will check that.

Sometime ago I sent a mail to ProAc asking for the recommended (bass / midrange driver screws) torque. Answer was “Please do not alter the tightness of the bolts/screws. thanks”

I disobeyed and set this torque to 1.4 Newton meter .

1 Like

Interesting. I can’t recall if I emailed them or just read here or another forum but the advice was something like this, “snug the bolts but don’t over-tighten.”

1 Like

I’ve found that periodically tightening the screws on my ProAc Tablette 10s is very worthwhile. I typically do this a couple of times a year. After some experimentation, I’ve settled on the following torque values, which were lower than I would have expected:

  • 1.3 Nm on the midrange unit screws
  • 1.4 Nm on the outer tweeter screws
  • 1.35 Nm on the (small) inner tweeter screws

It can be tricky to get such low torque values correct. I do the screws up as normal until I feel some resistance, then apply a firm single turn with the driver. As you can only turn a screwdriver about 120º, you want the driver to “slip” about halfway through that, otherwise the torque may not be correctly applied, so taking care to get the initial tightening correct is important. Easy enough to redo if you don’t get it right.

1 Like