I took back my rega rp10 ex demo from my dealer. It’s installed with the outer frame and cover lid.
There is no feet under the circular feet. But it’s stable.
I wonder if i should install the rigid feet again. These feet are not only for use without the frame?
my rp10, only on the circular “feet”
ah, i see someone responding. I felt alone😁
Actually it’s not resting on circular feet - only the outer frame is.
The actual skeleton frame and the platter are mounted on their own feet, hidden within the circular ones.
so i don’t need to fix rigid feet in that way? ( with the outer frame)
yes but i have no feet hidden
That’s impossible - the inner skeleton rests on them.
i put my finger under the circular feet, there is a hole. I don’t understand sorry. I feel something only after 1 cm or more .
i will remove tomorrow the frame to see clearer.
FR, if you’re saying that the inner plinth has no feet then you need the little inner feet. That’s what the actual deck sits on and they then fit inside the larger feet that hold the outer plinth. The standard inner feet can be replaced with the metal versions. I ave the metal ones but haven’t bothered to try them out yet as the standard feet sounded really good.
it was my rega rp10 that i sold 4 months ago and bought again. I had rigid feet under it that i removed when i sold it. I think my dealer didn’t put the original feet again. The deck now sits only on the circular feet.
Because under the circular feet there’s a hole.
i could’t wait: i removed the platter and put the turntable on vertical way: there is no feet under the circular feet. But the table is stable and i played some records before this afternoon.
A mystery? or perhaps the feet hidden that normally go with the turntable are only useful if you use the skeletal plinth?
Richard, i checked under the turntable. There is absolutely no feet under the circular feet. But all is stable and i can play records.
I wonder if the little hidden feet ( normally under) are not only useful in the case of only skeletal plinth use?
Hi FR
I’m a long time lurker who has gained an enormous amount of valuable info from this great forum, so couldn’t resist giving you my Rega RP10 experience.
I started off with RP10, Apheta 2, Aria and kept the outer plinth and cover on, all sitting on a thick marble bench.
After a couple of weeks I took the outer/cover off and preferred both the sound difference and minimal aesthetics.
As I got more serious and moved from 272/250DR to Melco N1ZS20 > NDX2 > 552 > 300DR on Fraim, I decided that a wall bracket was also necessary for the RP10 as I have old wooden floors, and notwithstanding the thick marble bench, I could still hear heavy foot fall (and I have teenagers who like to dance to vinyl also!)
When I ordered the Rega wall mount and cups for my RP10, they accidentally sent my dealer rigid feet instead of the cups. As they’d sent them already, I decided to give them a go before returning them.
In short, on the wall mount, I found the rigid feet to be materially better than the standard feet (which you may be missing?) for transparency, bass control and clarity of vocals - basically across the whole sonic spectrum.
It may well be a sonic taste thing, but if you value transparency above all else, and getting the closest you possibly can to what’s in the vinyl grooves, then for me the rigid feet on wall mount got me quite a lot closer.
I have since then upgraded to Aphelion and Aura, and it has taken what I thought was a brilliant match (Apheta 2 and Aria) to a completely different level of detail and sophistication. Interestingly, I had the Apheta 2 running with the Aura for two weeks or so while I was waiting for the Aphelion, and while there was a definite upscale in space and air throughout the soundstage, the Aphelion + Aura is a 1+1=3.5 upgrade.
I suspect that you don’t get the full value from either without matching them.
A further cheap, easy and frankly extraordinary upgrade came with putting Les Davis constrained layer pads underneath everything.
They are one of those products where you just shake your head and ask how on earth they work to produce such an extraordinary sonic upgrade, but IMO they are a ‘no brainer’.
They are hundreds of dollars to do an entire system, but are the equivalent of box, cable, and shelf upgrades costing many thousands and even tens of thousands of dollars.
I thought I had room acoustic problems, but putting these underneath everything tightened and controlled all levels of bass to a degree that just makes me smile constantly, and has me interested in some electronic music for the first time (try Kruder and Dorfmeister - The K&D sessions on vinyl).
They showed that I don’t have room acoustic problems, and have elevated transparency, clarity and air in the soundstage to degree that I don’t hear in perfect dealer listening rooms.
For what it’s worth, I have also replaced the supplied excellent quality RCA>RCA interconnects that come with the Aura, with SL RCA>DIN but only 10 days ago, and so it’s too early to make a judgement on the difference.
Frenchrooster … I’m a little confused?
I thought that you sold your SME turntable and bought an RP10 last year, but more recently (for some reason) swapped the RP10 for the RP8 (model below) … which you said sounded just as good as the RP10 and gave you some cash back.
If I hear you correctly, you have now gone back to your dealer and ‘bought it (RP10) back’??
If it’s the same deck, you’ll be familiar with the previous RP10 set up and also the feet on your former RP8, are fundamentally the same as the RP10.
Unless I’m mistaken, you previously tried the rigid feet on the RP10 that you bought last year … and we exchanged posts on a different thread.
Am I missing something???
SME to RP10 to RP8 and back again to RP10 …
Not wanting to be confrontational or anything and more than happy to help, but also a little confused. I would hate to think that you were losing money, by keep changing decks … especially since you’ve gone full circle.
I really like my RP10/Apheta 2 and if I recall, you previously had the Lyra Delos on your ‘first’ RP10.
The newer Planar 8 also seems to be held in high regard and if you’ve now got rid of your RP8, maybe the Planar 8 would have been a good option to explore … as opposed to re-purchasing the RP10.
For what it’s worth, you may recall that I tried the rigid feet on my RP10 (previous thread) … but I honestly could not tell any difference when used on the glass shelf of my Atacama.
I may have cloth ears, or the rigid feet may actually work better on different surfaces (wood or metal framed wall shelf etc) … just not my glass shelf.
At the end of the day, it’s your system and it’s all about enjoying what you have 
it seems a bit confusing indeed. I bought again the rp10 because it is better engineered vs the rp8. At that time i needed some cash and i was not listening much to lps. But recently i felt a lot of pleasure listening again to lps. I bought again the rp10 ex demo for the same price and sold the ex demo rp8 for the same price. I didn’t loose money.
The rp10 sounds better finally, but it’s not night and day however: more open and cleaner sound, a bit more details.
For the thread i open i have a question: i was using the rigid feet with it, but not in the skeletal way. The rigid feet were under the circular feet. However it was a little bit unstable.
Now, i installed the rp10 without any feet under it, only the circular feet. My rigid feet are on the rp8 at my dealer place. They had no time yesterday to remove them.
So i wonder if the turntable can work properly like that, without any little feet under the circular ones?
problem solved. I found finally the original little cone feet ( not the rigid ones which are at my dealer place) in a box in my home.
I installed them and now the skeletal plinth is a bit higher sitting.
However i can’t detect a difference in the sound. On memory however…
FR … really glad it’s all sorted.
The inner plinth (actual turntable with arm, motor unit etc) needs 3x feet which allows the TT to either sit on its own on a shelf, or placed within the apertures (large holes) in the outer plinth with lid.
It seems like you didn’t have any feet attached at all and the inner plinth was simply placed on top of the outer plinth 
The ‘small feet’ you referred to, were actually the silver threaded ‘washers’ into which the feet are screwed … you didn’t have any feet fitted at that point.
You can cg\hoose to sew the supplied standard ‘runner’ type feet or replace them with the rigid metal ones.
As I said before, to my ears there was no9 divergence when using the TT on a glass shelf.
Presumably you’re now using the standard feet and can enjoy the music
yes, the standard feet. All is fine now. The rigid feet i had on it one year ago gave instability to the turntable. But was sounding fine.
I feel it’s better use the rigid feet with only the skeletal plinth.
The standard cone little feet give no instability.
hi folks are the feet on a rega p10 interchangeable with those no a rega p9 .
and would they improve the sound
i don’t think so, the rp10 is completely different construction. I had the p9 some years ago and i am even not sure you can put off the p9 shoes.
