Should I be using DIN instead?

No - I purchased it on eBay. Clearly it wasn’t stated in the description.

It will work just fine and give you a bit more range on the volume control but personally, if that wasn’t a requirement - I’d want a standard lead without attenuation.

As that is wired, it looks like 2/3 of a T-Pad attenuator… worth checking there is the same resistor at the other end between centre pin and signal wire, otherwise I would not recommend using as wired.

It a 2 resister L-Pad, that’s how FBS do it.

Hi Mike, but an L-Pad (or potential divider) is directional… left is input, right is attenuated output on your diagram… and as wired, if an L-Pad the attenuator is at the input end, which I say is not sensible for best noise performance. If that was the output, the second resistor would be between centre pin and ground, not the cable side of the signal resistor as in the photo.

A uni directional attenuator needs to be wired with three resistors as either a T Pad or Pi Pad.

https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/attenuators/l-pad-attenuator.html

https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/attenuators/t-pad-attenuator.html

The seller has been very reasonable. He had two sets of cables for sale but sent me the wrong one. Rather than a refund (I’ve modified the attenuated cable to return it to standard spec) he’s done me a big discount on the other cable as I have a need for two.

Two of the top spec flashback cables for less than the cost of a new one. Happy days.

Good news… and a descent seller.

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I’m not justifying anything Simon, just saying FBS attenuate with an L-Pad.
I bought one once to attenuate my Naim-2 to enable it to run better on 2v input.
I sent it back & made my own, a single direction L-Pad larger wattage quality resisters installed in a separate box

All valid points and I wouldn’t fancy packing all the necessary resistors inside a Preh DIN connector shell (even though I do SMD repairs as part of the day job!)

Making the lead standard is the best solution

Sounds good

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