If you would like a little more information just let me know , bit rushed at the moment, wife’s birthday and we are off out for a meal, cheers.
I sold a K-9 cartridge on eBay a few years back. I think I got about £60 for it. The K-9 was the best moving magnet cartridge I ever used and that includes the Adikt.
Trying to sell on ebay now isnt worth the hassle for small value items since ebay changed the way it works, I listed 2 items last week for the first time in a few years after having a clear out, just bloody time wasters, then having to package stuff up, take it to Post Office, then wait for ebay to cough up after taking their cut, just aint worth the bother
T-Cut from your local car shop/garage, used to polish out small scratches on car paint, is said to do the trick. l plan to use it on the Mazak outer platter of my LP12 to polish out some annoying discolouration.
@Neil-26
Try
Lid: Displex
Platter: Solvol Autosol (I know you only asked about the lid!)
I’ve used both with good results.
Given the prices of AT VM95C/VM95E it is just simpler to buy new. I dont think the stylii are compatible with the old series. The advantage of using a cheap MM is you can replace the stylus before the sound start to deteriorate rather wait until just before they start to misbehave. For the 95E I think recommendation is 500 hours (ML and Shibata have other deterioration limits, I dont remember them right now).
You will hear if a cart is mistracking. With the arm you can do a simple swing-test yourself (I think there are youtube-videos) - but in the end of course always have the dealer check it out. I just did it with my late serial-number Ekos2 that had been in storage for 9 years and it passed with a large margin.
I think you might be replying to me by mistake
I usually rub the Displex in gently with fingers, @Neil-26 . Circular, paying more attention to any deeper scratches. Then buff with a clean & very soft microfibre cloth. May take a few goes. Good luck.
Hi jan, I did do a lot of research before the restoration started, had heard people talk about the swing test and reading different pieces of information, members post, articles and watching a number of YouTube video’s all massively helped prepare me before starting the work.
The Ittok passed all the tests with ease which was a big concern especially after contacting a very well respected dealer who informed me that it was now almost impossible to get the Ittok’s bearing replaced, and the cost involved would of stopped the build in it’s tracks.
I plan to fit a new cartridge just for piece of mind and get the dealer to give it the once over hopefully to confirm all is well. Then enjoy it for as long as I have it. Engineering is my back ground so I’m pretty confident we are okay but I will feel happier when someone used to dealing with this type of work day in day out takes a look, no substitute for experience.
Gone.
It would probably be better to use a proper headlamp polishing kit especially as the lid and headlamps are polycarbonate.
Save the toothpaste for your peggies.
Gone.
This is the kit I used to try and bring back the finish to the lid. The lid was in very poor condition, lots of deep scratches and very heavily marked, not dissimilar to the surface of an ice rink so it needed a pretty drastic approach, the machine is very good, very controllable but I would not recommend this action for dealing with the normal micro swirls and light scratches that seem to accompany acrylic lids, I think steviebee’s approach would be more the normal route to take.
As it turned out it worked for me but to be honest there wasn’t a lot to loose as the condition of the lid was so poor to begin with.
T-cut ,Autosolvol , Brasso their are plenty of products out there that can all help with minor blemishes and imperfections that annoy us, test first then take your time and most issues are fixable with a little time and patients.
Thanks for the tips.
Yes, my lid isn’t in the poor condition you refer to above, so I think a more gentle approach will pay dividends. Thanks for the advice.
Interested in the G3 Scratch Remover you show. I may have to investigate that.
That bottle will last you a life time, its very economical to use, works very gently, which is why its pretty safe, I’m thinking now the lid needs a polish just to finish it off just not sure what to use, acrylic is so soft and marks so easily might just buff it by hand.
The orbital polisher means if you make a mess you can recover it pretty quickly if doing it by hand it can take a lot longer.
If you use a torch and shine it on the surface you get a really good idea how you are doing, bit time consuming, but my time is free and it is quiet relaxing…I need to get out more!
You think that’s obsessive. Once a year I apply the torch to my Lotus’.
Glad to hear your Ittok appears ok but wise to get it checked out as you plan to do.
I’m familiar with the swing test but I’m sceptical that its not really a real world test, I mean your arm doesnt swing swiftly back and forth through 180 degrees when playing a record. The bearing when playing a record will need to be much more finely toleranced than might show up on a swing test, as you have an engineering background I expect you’ll understand that.