Snaxo

Depends if it is a 2-4 or a 242. See Richard’s post earlier in the thread.

It’s a 2-4, to be honest I don’t quite understand what it all means

This should be ok, as each pair of 135 is paired together (i mean each pair of 135 should be ok to work together). So i don’t see any trouble getting the same pair on tweeter rather than splitting one on medium/bass and the other on tweeter. This should be fine (and i think this is the default active mode possible without tweaking the NAXO).
I am using 2x135CB and 2x135 Olive here, and i put my Olive on tweeters because the Transfo is bigger on the Olive pair (600VA vs 500VA ?). This is what recommend Naim: always put the big NAP on the tweeters.

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Thanks, that makes perfect sense to me :+1:

When you set it all up for the first time I’d recommend connecting the bass first and then testing they are working before connecting the treble. If you get it wrong and try putting the bass signal through the treble you could blow the tweeters. Much less of a worry the other way round. :grin:

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Can you get snaxo 242DR and snaxo 242 non DR?

Or is it just the power supply that gets DR’d?

Just the power supply is DRed.

Thanks Richard

Can you adjust the snaxo 242 or does it need to go to naim if you change speakers?

(Sorry last question, promise)

If the crossover points are different on the new speakers then it needs to go to Naim (provided they are able to modify it to whichever speakers you are now using). However, if going from say, SBLs to SL2s, then you may just need to make a small tweak to the levels and you’re done. What speaker is the SNAXO currently set for and what do you need it changed to?

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I was mulling over buying the snaxo preloved and using with kudos 606s. Will ask the dealership what it’s presently set to.

Thanks for the advice.

OK, best check with Naim on that. The SNAXO for a 606 may be a completely different board, in which case, it may not make sense, or may not even be possible to modify an existing unit.

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Very important and a good advice for sure! Setting up active systems is not difficult, but it must be done with the right attention and nothing can go wrong.

Thanks Mark, good tip. I will have my tweeter amps on one rack and the midrange/bass on the other (saves stripping the whole setup down for a short period, house move). I’ll mark each cable accordingly too to try and any save mix-up. I will leave the tweeters disconnected and leave the unconnected amps off until the bass is correct

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Got this on my Naxo:

Same color on NAP.

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I’ve done something similar on mine but no colours, good idea to do that as well :+1:

Color is less prone to error :slight_smile:

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Yes, strangely I used to used coloured dots when assembling drawers in the days when I was a cabinet maker, it saved me cutting dovetails in the wrong piece/orientation, so simple and foolproof, why I never thought of it in this context is beyond me :rofl:

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The 135s and SNAXO have just been delivered, time to start putting things in place but still waiting on the NAC A5, Burndy, 4 Snaic and Hydra before I can start connecting up

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Good that you have ordered a hydra. It does clean up things significantly, and for me it took wories away being uncertain about the right power cables.

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I have one 4:1 already, I’ve hooked that up to the 135s, when the other finally arrives I’ll hook that up to the power supplies each on a separate dedicated mains spur.

I ended up moving all the 135’s onto a single rack and moved everything else over to the other one, I think that is the best I can do under the current rules as laid down by the Dragon. It’s all hooked up bar the power and speaker cables now, the burndy arrived earlier

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