That last one is spectacular. I simply can’t understand how the requisite temperature is reached for the solder to flow so well, without impacting the insulation at all. My attempts look much more like the failed examples. But still better than what the dealer supplied.
Yeah, you have to get that heat in there fast. Also pre-heating the pins, and the wood block likely helps hold that heat a fair bit. My iron is decent, (not sure of the wattage) but maybe I need to step it up some more. I’m kind-of inspired to have another go.
Yup, they do look good. The trick is to get a lot of heat in the plug quickly, before the insulation has a chance to really melt.
Making a wooden buck and ensuring that the strands are neatly slotted in place in the plugs and the cable strapped down to the buck allows you freedom of both hands to ensure the best soldering job. Make sure no solder runs over and down the plug - otherwise they will jam in the plastic casing - they need a bit movement to work properly and sound best. Likewise, you need to trim down any excess wire and solder with side cutters.
I like your opinion . But how do you know if it is broken or not?
I think what you can do mathematically or physically (by measuring, doing visual inspection) – do it. What you can‘t – do by your ears, eyes, nose, etc…
Svetty, I’ve read what you post before “edit” .
It is all about intuition. If your intuition is saying you something, it can’t be ignored. And I think I was right about it. Just look at the photos above, especially at amp end termination.
It’s not the neatest job granted. It looks as if the cable is too thick for the plugs and the guy doing the soldering has got around this by teasing some strands away and running them onto the outside of the plug then soldering.
Whether the conduction is sub-optimal is harder to determine