When I look through all the system pics postings and see Solidsteel stands, they seem to be 100% SS6s. Does anyone here own SS7s and if so, what size speakers are on them? I bought a pair of 7s for my LS50s and am now regretting the extra height (which when measured, seemed like a good idea at the time…)
The social proof here seem to indicate that the 6s are the way to go.
The key thing here is that the tweeters should ideally be at around ear level. So if your chair is high, or you are very tall, the 700mm version could be better. As you have the 7, and if you are happy with the sound, why worry? It doesn’t matter what others have. I did try the 6 when I had ProAc Tablette 10s, but sold them because there was just too much metalwork.
tweeters are just at/slightly above ear level with the new sofa. i turned the 50s on their side to lower them 1-2 inches and it seemed to make a difference.
so now i have a bad case of FOMO after looking at everyone’s pics 
Don’t worry.
I would hazard a guess that most people wouldn’t noticel the sound difference between a speaker which has a tweeter level with your ears and one where it is a couple of inches above.
Don’t those speakers have little feet on the bottom? If so they will look rather silly on their sides, even sillier than being four inches too high! Put them the right way up and embrace your decision.
Alternatively, and this is what I’d do, get shot of the SolidSteels and get the KEF stands, which look far nicer and come in a range of colours. They are 650mm high, so split the difference.
Buy a cushion 
no feet; on their sides, they look kind of cool if you like that ‘war of the worlds’ vibe
On my secondary system I run Q150s on 700mm Sound Anchors and I find it to be about perfect, anything lower would restrict the height of the soundstage.
Actually … the reason why I like my IBLs over my SBLs is that they are less tilted. So the tweeters are more aligned to my ears. If I sit higher on a cushion, the SBLs win …
I have Solidsteel stands for my new Falcon LS3/5As, but I have no idea which model number they are! They do the job well. There’s a complicated bag of bits to construct a square wooden base for the speakers to stand on. I haven’t used those, as I prefer to sit the loudspeakers on the three hard plastic tops of the stands.
I used to own SS7 when I used my Falcons downstairs. The sofa was taller than most so I needed the extra height of the SS7. Now I’m using an upstairs bedroom for hi-fi, the Falcons are on SS6 stands to match the lower sofa up there. The ones that suit the level of your ears are the right ones
We have the same amp, speakers and stands!
…And we are also both using SUTs! Yours Japanese, mine French/Hungarian. Although my cartridge’s body is made in Japan from beechwood and urushi lacquer - also by Ortofon Japan.
Your Thorens 124 TT must be at least 50 years old! Does it still run without problems?
My first ever serious TT was a Thorens 160S with a Mission 774 tonearm and Ortofon MC20 low output cartridge. It was very good, and I used to think that it must be almost as good as Linn’s LP12, but Howard Popeck of Subjective Audio in Camden High Street disabused me of that notion.
It’s MkII and I estimate it’s 57 or 58 years old.
It’s running well. I’ve added some improvements such as motor suspension springs instead of the original rubber grommets. Makes a big big difference.
Also I’ve added a new type of drive belt which solves the problem where Thorens supplied the same belt size for 50Hz and 60Hz mains regions, but made the motor pulley larger diameter for 50Hz places like the UK. This meant the belt was tighter and caused audible running noise here. The new belt is not only longer which reduces noise in itself, but is made from a composite material with much higher friction so is able to be much looser and still grip the pulleys, resulting in even lower noise.
I’ve also tried metal idler wheels but have reverted to the original Thorens part there. Other upgrades include new squashy chassis support things called gummymuffins, a new plinth and a panzerholtz armboard. I’ve polished the running surfaces of the motor pulleys and idler wheel too. The tonearm looks a bit vintage but is a current SME model, the M2-9R. It was made after requests from the Far East markets for a new arm to use with heavier low-compliance carts like the SPU I use. It’s a joy to own and listen to!
You really shouldn’t coil speaker cable like that. It does something bad to the inductance, or something like that.
True, there is an inductive effect but it’s essentially negligible at these lengths. Actually, I mentioned this to my partner last night when I moved the speaker cables, I said I might get told not to do this if anyone sees it on a forum! 
One of my speakers is much closer to the Nova than the other, so one of my leads is twice as long as the other. I was advised that this was better than coiling up the spare wire. It’s anathema to many of course, but nothing has blown up yet.
You’re not getting the full benefit of the isolation the top plate provides. It sits on ball bearings and has an oring underneath to help reduce vibrations. It really should be fitted it’s not difficult to fit. Seems silly to pay the price of the SA stands if you’re not using them the way the are designed to perform as their best.
What made you switch to the Nova and ATC speakers?
