Taking the grill off my sub just now brought home the size of the bass drivers in your speakers @n-lot … the sub is a mere 12” and happily rattles my fillings at 1/3 of its volume 
It’s not a subwoofer though.
I still need to measure the port tuning and see how low it actually goes (in my room).
Looking at this again I think I realise what makes the difference. With the open stands, or the sub here, the shape is more broken up vs the solid block of “black” of the sand filled stand.
If the open stands don’t work out as well, perhaps it wouldn’t be too hard to do something with the other ones to at least make them visually less solid. You probably need someone more creative to come up with more specific suggestions on what/how.
No and you won’t need one! Mine is on AV duty, I tried it for a while on the SN3 and am interested in trying it with my current system, but not a big priority.
Those 15” drivers will give you lovely low undistorted bass, looking forward to hearing your impressions of how these speakers sound overall.
Yes these are quite large stand mounts and I feel they need a solid looking stands … will try some designs on the computer. It could be just a change in colour for these ones, white or grey maybe.
@silverback may have started something here … Troels has a design for an active bass module that could be interesting, very happy with the low end of my speakers … but I have a problem with curiosity 
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A discussion I had with a friend just make me think of this comment of yours. He said that for burn in he would let it play at 20-30% of nominal max.
As it happens that figure is 400W for these drivers. With my Star being 70W, I can only get up to 17.5%. 
(which neither my ears nor neighbours would appreciate)
These drivers suspension might take a while to fully loosen I suspect.
Place the speakers close together, drivers facing each other and play London Grammar, “Non Believer” on repeat for a day … that should loosen them up quicker
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And, I guess, connect one of them out of phase 
I think I’ll just accept it will take a while.
Oh yeah … forgot that minor detail
Could’ve almost ported the cabinets into the bases but I’m saying that with no idea how that would affect the design and sound so take it with a large pinch of salt. I’ve total admiration for your build quality and final results…… well worth all the effort, I hope they sound fantastic!
Troels’s design allows for a floor standing version. As long as the front baffle width is retained, and the driver positions. The cabinet suggested ends up squarer. The stand mount is much deeper. Worth a look on the Troels Gravesen website to see.
Thanks @Arnsider … and yes they sound fantastic 
Troels does have a cabinet design for a floor stand version on his site as gthack said above. They would be a nice relatively compact speaker and I did consider it, however with my ultimate plans to resume the CNO build I thought I’d try something different, having not owned stand mounts before. I’m glad I did
Cheers,
Mark
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As I understand it (by no means an expert), increasing the volume would mean extending the frequency range down at the expense of sloppier bass.
Any design will already have a compromise between the two, so changing it (more than slightly) is unlikely to be a good idea.
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Troels’s floor standing version retains the internal volume, front baffle width and orientation of the drivers. He reduces front to back dimensions resulting in a squarer section. The stand mount is much deeper front to back
Standmounts - 240mm x 310mm
Floor standers 240mm x 250mm (still leaves a 400mm void into which he suggests mounting the x-over)
…ah, sorry, you were responding to the suggestion to port into the lower section!!
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I now somewhat regret not doing it. I changed the resistor on mine (removed the splicing block), and it’s different for sure. I’m just indecisive as to which is better. Currently changing it is removing a panel, pulling out the crossover board and fiddling (I cut the cables a bit short) with a splicing block.
Having a switch would make A/B-ing so much easier
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Hi @n-lot, if I can think of a neat way to do it then I probably will on my next pair … however it was quite clear which I preferred after listening for a week or so with a higher resistance resistor.
When are we going to get more photos and a report on they sound? You did say to remind you! 
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Interesting you started with the higher value, or was that Troels’ recommended one? For me the higher value one is the alternative option.
I’m just a bit busy and still want to do some measurements on the speakers, but once I have some time I’ll definitely share more pictures.
The sound is amazing. Everything sounds so life-like, clear and effortless. I initially thought something was wrong as they should be much more sensitive than my previous pair but I was using similar volume settings.
Until I noticed that for television I was actually reducing volume instead of increasing it like with the previous pair.
It’s so effortless you simply don’t notice how loud you play!
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Hi @n-lot … that’s really great to hear! I imagine they’re really good at low volumes as well, I’m still surprised by that with mine.
I did use the default value capacitor from the start, I tried the higher value out of curiosity later on but went back to the default pretty quickly, I just love the smoothness and clarity of the mid/treble. It’s certainly very useful to have the ability to adjust it, say if moving into another room etc.
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Been meaning to post this for a while, latest stands … and where I’m stopping for now, need to pull my finger out and get on with the CNOs, got the itch again
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Top notch mate!
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