SS60 Stand setup

Hi, I have been borrowing a set of SS60s from my dealer to try out with with RK50s and Nait50… wonderful performance, so I bought a pair. The dealer kindly obliged by filling the stands 50% with atabite… thanks Andy!
Now setting up at home, I have been playing around with the centre platform tension… and it makes quite a difference.
Firmly tightened so you can move the central cylinder albeit with much friction, you get a U style presentation with extended bass and treble… hmm not really my liking…
I loosen it off so minimum friction, and the U style presentation flattens out, and the timing with the RK50s steps forward… just how I love it.

Be interested to hear of others with SS stands how they have setup.

2 Likes

I have SS60 stands. I don’t like all the gubbins on top (I see no need for it all), so I have my LS3/5A loudspeakers sitting on the three hard plastic tops of the stands.

2 Likes

What, the three ball bearings?

Mine came with a whole packet of gubbins to put together a square wooden platform on top of the stand. I’d rather have the 'speakers sitting on the three hard plastic stubs on top of the stands. But each to their own, of course.

1 Like

oh I see, I don’t appear to have plastic stubs on my stands - just the metal holders for the ball bearings to support the wooden damping plate. As you say as long as it sounds good

Simon, I can’t put my hand on the cable to attach to my Mac to post a photo. I will do so when I find it.

Edit: I’ve now found the cable. Here’s a photo.

2 Likes

Thanks Simon for the tip. I have loosened the screw that holds the top plate on my SS-6. But not much is possible because otherwise the top plate wobbles and no longer rests evenly on the ball bearings. The plastic cylinder in the middle has a rubber pad at the bottom. I also think it should not be compressed too much.
Otherwise, I think the MDF top plate and the ball bearings are part of Solidsteel’s technical approach. I don’t see why positioning the speakers on the plastic brackets of the three standpipes would have any advantages.
However, Isoacoustics Gaia III under the feet instead of the spikes have brought a big improvement for me (on a concrete floor with parquet). It also makes sense to fill the standpipes. As Atabites were not available in Switzerland, I used dry aquarium sand. The filling quantity is important to avoid overdamping. I filled the tubes 2/3 full. With Atabites, 50% is probably also good. Here too, trial and error helps.

2 Likes

Hmm. Lossy joints. You really should try speedframe Simon… :wink:

1 Like

got you - ok my tops are metal rather than plastic - I wonder if they have changed the design?

S

Thanks - yes mine are filled around 50% - I wonder if that is slightly too much

S

1 Like

mine are also metal, using them with RK 50

1 Like

you sure that the Gaia’s work in that position?

Yes, absolutely. The support of the Gaias III at the bottom is floating and therefore adapts to the angle of the SS-6. They therefore rest flat on the floor (you can find a technical drawing on the Isoacoustics website). The screws of the Gaias also fit into the threads of the SS-6, but it is important to note the maximum load capacity. Three Gaias III can be loaded with a maximum of 24 kg (speaker + SS-6 with filling of the bars). However, it makes sense to only use up to 3/4 of the maximum load in order to ensure permanent function. That would be 18 kilograms per stand. If the total weight is higher, I would prefer to switch to Gaia II.

2 Likes