Yes, that would make a fair test.
And yes, there will be expectation effects in any change - it is hard to avoid that especially when the new socket is much more expensive than the old one.
But none of that necessarily invalidates any reports of improvements from changing mains sockets & plugs.
Bias in this case works both ways.
If you add a specialist plug and socket to your dedicated radial you are doing so in the hope that it will result in better SQ, which is a source of bias.
If you add a standard (e.g. MK) socket to your hifi radial you will do so in the belief that a specialist (e.g. Furutech) socket will not result in better SQ.
But in a system where you have gone to great trouble and some expense to get a specialist dedicated radial to connect to specialist power cables into your hifi, how can you be sure that a specialist plug and socket at that last mains socket will not make an improvement.
This explains why we often see very strong opinions against specialist sockets from people who have not tested them in the way that you propose.
If a specialist plug and socket costs less than 1% of the price of your hifi then it seems a sensible precaution to take, especially if you plan to remain in that house for decades.
Similar story to many above:
Mark
If you do that please do post up the result.
Chrisâ system also includes âclean the terminals, and reinstall it with the correct tightness on the connectionsâ.
Not sure whether the correct tightness means using a torque wrench to tighten the screws to whatever is the manufacturerâs recommended tightness (if that can be ascertained)?
I did notice in a recent video of a professional using a torque screwdriver to tighten all the connections in a newly installed Consumer Unit.
Iâm sure anyone who has ever done any wiring will know from experience that once you do a general tightening of cables, leave it a minute and do it again - there always seems to be a little more give at that point, so I like the idea of using a torque screwdriver as a final confirmation.
I think also a recheck of tightness of cables 6 months after installation of a new circuit may be worth doing (if you are suitably skilled)
Electricians are now obliged to use a calibrated torque screwdriver when tightening connections.
Well, I laughed out loud at the idea of using a torque screwdriver for mains terminals, but shows what I know!
For me at least, 1% of even the tha amount my system cost me, let alone 1% of its value, is not throw-away money and Iâd want it to make a noticeable improvement, albeit nothing like something costing 10x the amount - otherwise it would be better spent elsewhere. That said, Iâm not sure if the fancier sockets are that much, but even ÂŁ50 or ÂŁ100 is not something to throw away. However, I guess thatâs the reason for the survey?
Regarding expectation bias, one way or another, it would not be difficult to do A-B blind comparisons - Iâm sure an electrician could set up two different sockets ready for that, especially if you have two or more socket outlets. It would be good to hear from anyone who has actually done blind comparisons, though I doubt there are manyâŚ
Thanks - great description.
Is the newer socket on the original house wiring?
Sounds like fun but other than that I am not sure why I would need a blind test if I clearly like it (more) how it sounds with the new socket. I recently changed my speakers (also) without even remotely needing a blind test - I just connected the new ones and I knew.
MK Logic Plus - Unswitched - Simple design and not expensive.
Iâve seen it mentioned further up the thread but torque settings are important, especially when you may be trying to shove 10mm T&E in the back of these things.
Itâs tempting to tighten it to an extreme in the belief thatâll make it a better contact, itâs more likely to make a weak connection and one that could fail and arc if not installed as required.
OK - anyone care to share (or point me in the direction of) the recommended torque settings for the terminal screws in an MK wall socket, and for those in the mains plugs?
Mark
As a guide, Recommended Torque Setting: 0.5Nm L,N, E Terminals.
Based on up to 4mm, beyond that youâre out of spec of the design of the terminal.
That seems very low to me, even for thinner cable like 1.5mm. The figure would be supplied by the manufacturer of the fitting. Iâve seen specs issued by Hager for a consumer unit in the past, from memory they were around 2 or 3Nm.
This is 13 Amp sockets not MCBâs, as you say, check with MK specs, thatâs a guide based on other sockets of same type.
Sure, but 0.5Nm still seems very low to me. Still, if thereâs a correct setting itâs up to manufacturers to specify it. Installers are inevitably reluctant to take this sort of stuff on board, which is possibly part of the reason why the likes of MK have started producing sockets with those spring loaded terminals.
Not tried those myself, same principle as the Wago ones basically, as you say designed for speed of install and compliance.
I have to say that the electrician that installed my car charging point a few weeks ago didnât use a torque screwdriver at any point.
Were you provided a EIC certificate (DEIC18.2c) and Building Regulations Certificate of Compliance?
Your supply DNO will also have required a load demand evaluation including a visual check of your primary cutout fuse and approval to connect notice before works commenced.
That is your formal documentation for the installation works and basis of insurance proof of works competency and liability.
A regularly calibrated torque driver should be used as part of standard work practice and manufacturers will ordinarily provide the required settings in any documentation usually provided in printed form with the product itself and made available online for reference.
Should anything go wrong you have your certificates to refer back to and liability sits with the installer.