Survey - New Mains Sockets?

Yes, that would make a fair test.

And yes, there will be expectation effects in any change - it is hard to avoid that especially when the new socket is much more expensive than the old one.

But none of that necessarily invalidates any reports of improvements from changing mains sockets & plugs.

Bias in this case works both ways.

If you add a specialist plug and socket to your dedicated radial you are doing so in the hope that it will result in better SQ, which is a source of bias.

If you add a standard (e.g. MK) socket to your hifi radial you will do so in the belief that a specialist (e.g. Furutech) socket will not result in better SQ.

But in a system where you have gone to great trouble and some expense to get a specialist dedicated radial to connect to specialist power cables into your hifi, how can you be sure that a specialist plug and socket at that last mains socket will not make an improvement.

This explains why we often see very strong opinions against specialist sockets from people who have not tested them in the way that you propose.

If a specialist plug and socket costs less than 1% of the price of your hifi then it seems a sensible precaution to take, especially if you plan to remain in that house for decades.

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Similar story to many above:

  1. Generic unbranded switched double, as fitted when house was built ~30 years previously
  2. MK unswitched double
  3. A fair improvement - not ‘night and day’ or ‘veil-lifting’, but better. However, I did give the wire tails a jolly good clean at the same time, so it could be that instead/as well. They’ve been in place several years now, so the tails are probably due a re-clean. I could do that but keep the same socket and see what difference that makes.

Mark

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If you do that please do post up the result.

Chris’ system also includes “clean the terminals, and reinstall it with the correct tightness on the connections”.

Not sure whether the correct tightness means using a torque wrench to tighten the screws to whatever is the manufacturer’s recommended tightness (if that can be ascertained)?

I did notice in a recent video of a professional using a torque screwdriver to tighten all the connections in a newly installed Consumer Unit.

I’m sure anyone who has ever done any wiring will know from experience that once you do a general tightening of cables, leave it a minute and do it again - there always seems to be a little more give at that point, so I like the idea of using a torque screwdriver as a final confirmation.

I think also a recheck of tightness of cables 6 months after installation of a new circuit may be worth doing (if you are suitably skilled)

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Electricians are now obliged to use a calibrated torque screwdriver when tightening connections.

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Well, I laughed out loud at the idea of using a torque screwdriver for mains terminals, but shows what I know!

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  1. Decorative switched that was fitted at time of build 35 years ago. Was a quality item made from brass with decent terminals.
  2. Unswitched silver MCRU.
    uninitiated would presume a downgrade as this has a fairly slim lightweight plastic faceplate, although much better silver plated clamping and what - not.
  3. The old ones in hindsight wasn’t too bad. The new silver ones definitely put things in the soundstage much more further back and away from the plane of speakers.
    Details more smoother and clean.
    I can see why some prefer going without the fuss of changing these things - as the more forward and earthy sound of the old mains sockets may well be right for them and system.
    I swapped out the old ones nearly some 10 years ago, so not exactly “new”.
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For me at least, 1% of even the tha amount my system cost me, let alone 1% of its value, is not throw-away money and I’d want it to make a noticeable improvement, albeit nothing like something costing 10x the amount - otherwise it would be better spent elsewhere. That said, I’m not sure if the fancier sockets are that much, but even £50 or £100 is not something to throw away. However, I guess that’s the reason for the survey?

Regarding expectation bias, one way or another, it would not be difficult to do A-B blind comparisons - I’m sure an electrician could set up two different sockets ready for that, especially if you have two or more socket outlets. It would be good to hear from anyone who has actually done blind comparisons, though I doubt there are many…

Thanks - great description.

Is the newer socket on the original house wiring?

Sounds like fun but other than that I am not sure why I would need a blind test if I clearly like it (more) how it sounds with the new socket. I recently changed my speakers (also) without even remotely needing a blind test - I just connected the new ones and I knew.

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MK Logic Plus - Unswitched - Simple design and not expensive.

I’ve seen it mentioned further up the thread but torque settings are important, especially when you may be trying to shove 10mm T&E in the back of these things.

It’s tempting to tighten it to an extreme in the belief that’ll make it a better contact, it’s more likely to make a weak connection and one that could fail and arc if not installed as required.

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OK - anyone care to share (or point me in the direction of) the recommended torque settings for the terminal screws in an MK wall socket, and for those in the mains plugs?

Mark

As a guide, Recommended Torque Setting: 0.5Nm L,N, E Terminals.
Based on up to 4mm, beyond that you’re out of spec of the design of the terminal.

That seems very low to me, even for thinner cable like 1.5mm. The figure would be supplied by the manufacturer of the fitting. I’ve seen specs issued by Hager for a consumer unit in the past, from memory they were around 2 or 3Nm.

This is 13 Amp sockets not MCB’s, as you say, check with MK specs, that’s a guide based on other sockets of same type.

Sure, but 0.5Nm still seems very low to me. Still, if there’s a correct setting it’s up to manufacturers to specify it. Installers are inevitably reluctant to take this sort of stuff on board, which is possibly part of the reason why the likes of MK have started producing sockets with those spring loaded terminals.

Not tried those myself, same principle as the Wago ones basically, as you say designed for speed of install and compliance.

I have to say that the electrician that installed my car charging point a few weeks ago didn’t use a torque screwdriver at any point.

Were you provided a EIC certificate (DEIC18.2c) and Building Regulations Certificate of Compliance?

Your supply DNO will also have required a load demand evaluation including a visual check of your primary cutout fuse and approval to connect notice before works commenced.

That is your formal documentation for the installation works and basis of insurance proof of works competency and liability.

A regularly calibrated torque driver should be used as part of standard work practice and manufacturers will ordinarily provide the required settings in any documentation usually provided in printed form with the product itself and made available online for reference.

Should anything go wrong you have your certificates to refer back to and liability sits with the installer.