Because FWD is so much nicer to drive, (and AWD, like Audi’s quattro in tge case of ICE cars, even better). And it’s amazing how many BMWs and Mercs seem to get stick in the least bit of snow where I live, while other cars manage without much trouble.
I had no issues in light snow with a 270bhp Sierra Cosworth going to and from work in an are with hills.
FWD is easier and generally requires less skill unless it’s a 205 GTi. 
I agree re the snow but you can always put a bag or two of coal in the boot however I wouldn’t say they’re nicer to drive, I have both and rwd gets my vote, so much more engaging particularly if the car has a sorted chassis, although little trickier in the wet perhaps.
Can’t agree. A well setup RWD car I find more enjoyable. Usually a nicer and more pleasing chassis balance when cornering and with steering uncorrupted by power through the front wheels FWD can be fun but too often they understeer, or torque steer if powerful. To be fair most cars now are so neutered by electronics, excess weight and numb controls that the driven wheels are probably irrelevant to the driving feel, and the differences are less obvious.
Bruce
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Due more to the stupid low profile ultra wide tyres they put on them to be fair😁
Exactly. Why would I want that? I want a car that goes exactly where I point it, as fast as I want it to (which can be very fast), with no unnecessary drama. Any sliding is unnecessary if the car is well designed - otherwise if the car is well designed, sliding is an indication of poor driving skill…
4 wheel drive is different than all wheel drive. 4 wheel drive will have locking differentials. It’s also not recommended to drive on road with differentials locked. All wheel drive does not lock up the differential but sends power to different wheels as needed. FYI Mercedes has a fixed 40/60 split. BMW is rear drive unless slippage is detected. Audi is 40/60 split but will move power front to rear as needed. I have an Audi
All of the 80s/90s vehicles I listed are proper, permanent 4 wheel drive, the Ford’s are 60/40 and the the Audi 50/50. The Ford’s have viscous LSDs on the rear and centre diffs, I’m not sure about the Quattro’s slippers or the Scoobs.
Only off road 4x4 needs lockers. I’ve got one of those too, slipper on the front and rear; locker and slipper on the centre. Low ratio transfer case. Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Anything that normally drives through the rears but adds a bit to the front electronically ‘when required’ isn’t a proper setup, it’s cheaper to do though, and less weight.
It is less weight but unless the rear wheels slip the front drive system on many cars so-called AWD cars is redundant, and you carry it around all the time. In the three years of all-weather usage I had my Volvo V60 Cross Country I would be surprised if the 4WD engaged for more than 2% of the time. Impossible to tell but in a car of that ilk which is neither a performance permanent 4WD (as per the 90’s Subarus and similar) nor a true off road vehicle you have to wonder if it is worth it. Modern traction control, winter tyres and driving with a bit of sense surely copes with most conditions. I read on a Forum an EV6 owner comment that when he hoofed it with full throttle into a roundabout on a test drive the RWD traction was a bit limited, so he went with the AWD. Well, if you apply 350nM of torque more or less instantly what did you expect!
As for snow (and we get a share here) then if it is more than trivial the roads will be blocked by the aforementioned owners of performance cars in summer low-profile tyres anyway.
Bruce
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My old TT (Mk1, ESP but no spoiler, tuned by AMD) was a great all weather drive. There was no other place I’d rather be when driving on a dark wet night with lots of standing water on the road. I still much prefer RWD as it’s just a more fun when conditions allow, otherwise i just slow down and drive to the conditions. No need for speed when the conditions are poor.
Just throttled and compensated, I’m not against these concepts, per se, but am fed up of colleagues using these things saying they wasted 6 hours on a 48 hour business trip by getting nowhere near the claimed distance. We also stopped between Stuttgart and Munich, 10 of the 12 chargers at the station (a shopping center) were defective with a Tesla tech running around replacing inverter modules “this all i do these days” typically in our department a 2 day business trip now is 4 days with more hotel accommodation needed, hardy energy saving IMO
But as for RWD being fun, only for people whose idea of fun driving includes controlling the car sliding - as I said, I prefer a car that simply always goes exactly where it is pointed, however fast I am driving and under whatever conditions: that to me is fun. And yes, My TT is the Mk 1 quattro - I love driving it, whatever the weather.
Well done for keeping the old girl going. I moved mine on 20 or so years ago. A lot of fun at the time though.
As a person who owns an EV (Renault Zoe 52kwh version) and has read a lot about EVs and how they work, I always recommend to get the bigger battery if possible for several reasons:
- You need to use the battery between 20% and 80% most of the time to keep it in good condition. This leaves you with 60% of usable battery capacity. Please don’t get me wrong. You can absolutely charge the battery to 100% and discharge it to 0%. It’s fine to do it from time to time for long trips, however on daily bases it’s highly recommended to charge it up to 80-85% and charge again when it reaches 20-25%.
- In winter your range will drop between 10-30% depending on the temperature. Not sure if that’s applicable for Thailand though
- Every battery degrades after time and that is normal and we shouldn’t worry about it. Most batteries degrade around 10% in several years. If you have a bigger battery, you will have more range after the initial degradation.
- Bigger battery means less charging and this is good for 2 reasons: It is more convenient to charge once every 7-8 days than once every 5-6 days especially if you don’t have a home charger. Each charging cycle reduces the life of the battery. Normally I wouldn’t worry about this as modern batteries have a lot of charging cycles.
- Last but not least, you can travel a bigger distance. I put this last, because chargers will evolve and there will be more chargers over time and it should not matter much which battery size you have. Right now however, bigger battery means more convenience and less charging.
On the other hand you need to check which batteries does Tesla Model 3 SR comes with. If they are LFP batteries forget what I told you about the 80% rule, because they have a different chemistry and needs to be charged to 100% in order to increase their longevity, which means that you will always start with 100% range.
Hope it helps.
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So 50% rear wheel drive then 
I bought mine only 5 years ago - in near perfect condition, and running very well. Amazing value for money.
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That is a great help, thanks. For my use, it confirms the standard is the right one.
What stunning reasoning and so helpful to the OP.
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I’ve just finished a rental of the LR in California. As an example a 200 mile drive used 80%. The car had three passengers and was stuffed with luggage. The terrain was hilly.
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All wheel drive, so yes, by definition that does include the rear wheels but is not RWD - a huge difference!
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