Thanks, Rafael. At least we know he’s OK.
Just dragging this old chestnut up. For equally afflicted I just thought this is an interesting video by Jesco. ATB Peter
Peter, it seems as though the video is suggesting that a 12 inch thick bass trap comprised entirely of rockwool would perform similarly to one made of 6 inches of Rockwool with a 6 inch air gap behind. This seems illogical, but he seems to have graphs supporting this. But for most people, the real constraint is space rather than the cost of Rockwool so it doesn’t actually get as much further forward unfortunately.
Hi John, having just watched the video again I agree with you entirely. This principle can of course only be ‘stretched’ so far to avoid, what Jesco displays here. You shift the efficiency of the panel towards an even lower frequency, but start getting a drop further up. This could be somewhat tuned depending on your target frequency in your room:
As displayed on his graph above. Jesco bear in mind specialises in home studio treatment, ie where less consideration aesthetically need to be applied compared to more domestic environments. In my case having used GIK soffit bass traps (42x42x115 centimetres) in the speaker end corners, it would be look rather odd and hopelessly intrusive moving them a 1 1/2 foot away from the corners
I settled for a 2 inch air gap as seen below:
Behind the listening chair I left a slightly smaller gap between the rear wall and my monster bass traps:
The 10 mm plywood sheets on the window ledge covering 1st reflections from the window panes are painted black on the other side with water based paint to leave them discreet looking from our drive outside.
Oh the mad World of room treatment ATB Peter
Peter, many thanks for taking the time and for the photos. I am hoping to finally bite the bullet and get some room treatment installed shortly and will post to the forum when I do.
That sounds great John and do let us know how you get on👍🏼 ATB Peter
I wonder how much gap would be ideal with GIK monster bass traps, as I think they have a built in air gap alread?
I have 12 Monsters with Range limiters mounted on the wall with no gap, 6 mounted on window sills with 4" gap and 2 sitting on floor with 6" gap.
I think with Monsters its best to go with the Range limiters then mount them in the best way you can. As you say the do have a built in air gap anyway. Mounting with a gap helps but they still work well flat mounted.
I mounted mine using long hook eye screws into the frame on each corner, then a simple small hook in the wall. I always mount the same distance as the thickness of the panels and that seems to work.
Just waiting on some 8" printed panels to make them a little more room friendly for the main refection aspects although the ceiling and rears will remain white :).
a wonderful room piece with the Ovators. I’d like to see more pictures please.
Inspired by this post I have decided to try some room analysis.
I do miss Thomas’ posts, would love to see how his room project turned out.
Wishing him all the best.
Be good to hear how that works out!
Will report back. Might take me a bit of time to figure out results as it’s all a bit new to me. Will try some tests this weekend.
Nice setup Peter, but that chair looks awfully uncomfortable to me.
It actually isn’t, but I appreciate that it would make more sense, if there was some heavy mains cables attached to it ATB Peter
StuW,
I bought one last year (and a microphone stand) and consider it money very well spent.
I did what I could with physical treatments (no Thomas!), speaker placement and listening position first then applied some DSP.
Good to share what works for you.
Good luck (don’t try and rush it😁).
Totally agree, i was able to move things around and measure the difference live. Key take away for me was that i didnt need a sub!
Took my first measurements today. After some video tutorials and a bit of head scratching I think I got some usable results. Couldn’t figure out how to name a selected output device but hooked up to my 272 and set levels and got a test sweep.
I took measurements with both speakers simultaneously. Is it necessary or better to measure right and left speakers separately?
Looks like I’ve got some peaks at 30hz and 130hz, a dip at 250 and further dip between 2.5 to 3.5 khz. I need to take some more measurements with some additional bass traps and at different listening positions and of course start to understand the graphs a bit more clearly.
Really interesting subject.
Hi Stu,
Hope you’ve got a consistent frequency range reading!
Standing wave peak was my main issue that passive bass traps don’t do a lot for.
Fortunately lots of advice on inter web - there are also much more knowledgeable members on forum if you’re brave enough to ask .
You’ve now got a puzzle you need to solve unless of course you’ve got the Harman Kardon curve already!
Good luck.
Edit: meant to say say is your room about 5.7m by any chance?
Thanks Tapp
Still got a lot more work to do as you say. Had a quick look on the REW forum which looks like a good source of info.
Room is 5.1m - not far off, a slightly odd shape though.